Recent content by ArjenCNX

Best make sure the gap at the hinge is big enough for a layer of paint, without it rubbing against a surface, that would not look nice. i think you have about 0.5mm there to play with

Haha, i just drew one up :-) should have checked!

Caps needed: - 16V 2200uF 4X - 16V 1000uF 2X - 35V 470uF 1X - 25V 470uF 1X - 25V 47uF 3X - 50V 2.2uF 1X - 35V 100uF 1X - 25V 100uF 2X - 50V 47uF 1X - 50V 1uF 2X - 50V 10uF 1X if you can get it include the TOP200YAI and replace it, it seems sensitive.

I can already see that IC1/TOP200YAI is dead, R4, the fusable resistor is blown, meaning that IC1 is dead. this is the self switching fet for the standby powersupply, what you have there is 2 PSU's, one for standby and one for power. this is a common fault, sometimes caused by an issue...

Very smooth, looks nicer than extrusion printing, make sure you add a washer (nylon/plastic) in between the hinge part of the bezel where it meets the base (where the long M4 screw meets the bezel) id love to know what the print costs in total, and how the materials hold up over time, i would...

I have also drawn up the Motherboard supports and the Motherboard clasp as they are also crumbly print with 0.4mm nozzle at 0.1mm layer height out of PETG material

Hi there All, I have a Power Macintosh G3 in and the plastics are very crumbly, so i have spend a few hours to make the needed parts in CAD and i have test fitted them. a few revisions down the line, they are ready to print. Here to share: - HDD slide in brackets (the ones that live on the...

wow, that took a while no doubt! always a joy when they finally do boot up!

I have 3 boards with a similar issue, i used the thermal cam to compare good to bad boards, and found the cuda doesnt get warm. also i measure 33.1MHZ on the crystal, but just 7KHZ on the output of the cuda chip (pin-8) i have just verified, you should find a 16mhz sine wave at 10V P-P, my...

Not bad, personally i have 2 hand helds, one from Applent (AT826) it was around the same price. Served me well for 10 years now. and i just got a FRNSI LCR LC1020E, very cheap and thus far it seems pretty good. for complex issues and suspect caps i use a Chinese Tonghui TH2840A, boot is slow...

Nice! can't wait to see it work!

Yeah ripple current and ESR matter allot for what we do :-) must have for any of us nerds is a LCR meter for testing the boogers !

Hi there Tinkerers, thought i'd share something i worked on for a while. Since i started servicing classic mac's, and especially colour classic machines, I've always been annoyed that it is so hard to measure anything in-situ, while powered on. So when i got a LC575 in with plastics that had...

Maybe you are right, still, if we want to prevent stresses from building up, gluing is still best, this will need surface area to be stable over time. a melt-in insert is still best here in that case, glued in place with epoxy or maybe even yellow glue (shoe repair glue) as it never fully hardens

I generally measure those buffer caps, and its exceedingly rare for them to fail, you can very likely re-use the old one. (that is my experience with hundreds of repairs under my belt) about the citric acid bath, you can use this, especially if the board is in a bad state. I use an...