Recent content by JeffC

Just a heads up there is a 128k/512k HyperDrive controller board just listed on eBay. Since a Plus controller works on my 512k, it may work the other way around with the 512k controller on the Plus. If you can pick it up for a good price it may be worth having in your parts bin as you work on this.

Is there any reason not to prime and paint the bracket, after masking off the posts that solder to the PCB and the little ears that connect to the chassis?

The SE/30 is the most popular compact Mac, in the US a working SE/30 logic board will probably cost at least $200 USD. You are better off putting a bit of time into the board you have. I would start by scrubbing the board with alcohol, then replace all the caps. When you have the caps off take a...

What was the screen displaying before the recap? Did you only replace some of the caps on the logic board?

Interesting, I have the same board, but it looks like mine is not set up to run an '030 as-is. It is missing some ICs and the '030 socket compared to yours, though the PCB has provisions for them. Previously I assumed this is because mine is an early board, only having Quesse branding compared...

Based on the partial pic of the rear case it's not a Plus, the audio-out jack is on the wrong side, and you should be able to see part of the SCSI connector if it were a Plus. You can decode the serial number under the front lip, there are some online decoders. That would tell you what model it...

Check the responses to your Reddit thread, a guy offered a very reasonable deal on a logic board, analog board, case, and CRT. No PSU. Unless your board is easily repairable, which it likely is not, you will be a couple hundred dollars into making this a working machine. You may luck out once...

What is the question with the jumpers? I have a 512ke with a HyperDrive. The controller board was damaged so I bought a replacement controller board off eBay. It was from a Mac Plus kit, and came attached to a Plus logic board. It is nearly the same part number as your controller board, and may...

Last year I built one of the Performer clones from Bolle's github PCB/GALs. I believe this is identical to the version sold by Mac Effects. I did a build write-up over at 68kMLA. I did not take detailed notes on what version of Speedometer and system software I was running, though Speedometer...

Are you sure it doesn't still work? I accidentally snapped the plastic housing on one and it still works fine.

You would really need to be looking for that spot to even notice it. I'm curious what happens in the coming months. At least with Retro Brite, some people have said the yellow returns quickly even without exposure to light, and others have said it takes a long time.

Wow, impressive results. I'm especially impressed there is no outline of the badge in the lower-right corner. How did you ensure the sides got even sun? Did you rotate throughout the day?

Well I was reading your message before I had coffee, so our mental states probably weren't far off. Thanks for the advice, I'll update after I get some time to test further.

Thanks for the info. Alternatively to powering through the USB plug, the board also has a pin header I could use to provide power. This might be easier than stripping a mini-USB cable and connecting those wires to a Molex connector. I think I may have a spare Molex cable in storage I could cut...

I was originally going to hack up a mini USB cable to power the MacSD through the mini USB plug, pulling power from the Molex connector for the original hard drive. However, I figured since I had the same symptoms whether I was running the MacSD off SCSI term power bodged from the DB25...