Recent content by Marconelly

Turns out it was just a silly goof on my part, as I was installing the speaker facing upwards, rather than downwards, as it should be. When I flipped it over, it all snaps into place perfectly, with nothing being strained :)

I will try,, but it’s possible that he didn’t even notice it since the connector does snap in place, just harder than it normally should - and the logic board can still be plugged in even though connector is at a bit of an angle. Could be also that my LC575 speaker is just a tiny bit thicker...

I tried this just now, and it turned out more tricky than it would seem. Taking the cassis out and snapping the speaker into place went without problem, but routing cables so that they don’t collide with anything was a bit of a puzzle at first. Real problem is that with the speaker in place, I...

Note that he mentions the 1800rpm Noctua fan. The one you installed (and the same one I got) is NF-A8. which is 2200rpm, but can be slowed down to 1750rmp using the supplied cable. Maybe he's using a different fan, or has slowed that one down. As for the speaker, the LC575 does indeed sound...

Right - and there are perforations on the bottom side of the case, right under that spot, which I always assumed was for cooling air intake. I was at first thinking that the speaker electromagnet being pointed upwards like that towards the CRT might cause image distortion, but now I'm thinking...

I've seen a video where someone briefly touched on this subject, saying that you can take the speaker out of LC575 and put it very easily into Color Classic. There's even a factory built spot for this speaker, with perforations, clips and everything. He says the LC575 speaker sounds much better...

I've made very sure that grounding loops on both the AB and main board have good contact with the shielding. I was thinking about the cracked trace, but the thing is, once the hissing starts, even the light push onto flyback modulates it. I guess it could still be a trace on the board somewhere...

I pulled all those black rectangular components around the power plug from LC575 board, and transplanted them onto the CC board that I'm troubleshooting - it changed nothing :( I did however notice that pushing and slightly twisting the analog board does change or eliminate the electrical hiss...

Right - that component was my prime suspect for a while, since I also noticed how hot it gets, and it sounded like the hiss was coming from around that area. I even found out what the component is, and there is a replacement sold for it (I think it's a PTH451C thermistor). But the thing is...

Recently my Color Classic has started misbehaving again :( Same thing as before - works for some time, then I can hear a high pitched electrical hiss and a few seconds later it shuts down. Lately this has started happening only a few minutes after powering it on, and I've noticed that the...

Yes, I see that one 1000uF cap on your board faces the other way. Just put the new one the same way the original one was facing, and you'll have the markings on the board to confirm this 100%. When in doubt, always follow the markings on the board. The photo of my board is before I did any...

No, I don't have the camera, but I do have an IR thermometer with the laser pointer. I haven't really measured the temperatures, just felt around the board with my finger right after powering the computer off. That's how I found that some components get pretty hot when the computer is shut down...

I have not replaced any of the diodes or resistors. They all look fine visually and no burn marks around any of them. Only component (other than the capacitors) I replaced was one CNY75GB which had some corrosion on its legs. After that computer worked markedly better. But as soon as I replaced...

Another interesting find I just had. Now that I've got this board stable (mostly - it still seems to sometimes power off after hours of working fine) I decided to revisit my replacement of the second optoisolator. So originally, after replacing the first optoisolator IC (the one close to the low...

Not sure if I'm using the right term, but what I mean by sub-brightness is the brightness of a pure black color. Ideally, that should be zero on a CRT, no light should be emitted for black pixels - but when I started using this board, the black color was very visibly bright and green tinted. So...