Recent content by Paolo B

I did a similar intervention on a HP712 top lid. It’s not for the faint of heart, but doable. With the help of a bench drill, surely doable. Or maybe even some thin and long screws could do the job. As for disassembling the actual hinges, it’s super simple. Remove the cylindrical aesthetic...

I did a similar intervention on a HP712 top lid. It’s not for the faint of heart, but doable. With the help of a bench drill, which can ensure accurate positioning and steady drilling, surely doable. As for the reinforcing rod, the drill bit itself. A 0.8 mm can probably do the job. I would...

First off, I would disassemble the Portable, in order to have a more freedom to operate. The Portable was famously designed to be disassembled by hand, no tool needed. I am afraid just glueing may not suffice, as - obviously - the hinge got fractured along the line of maximum mechanical stress...

As far as I know, the metallic paint had the function of EMS. Shouldn’t be a big issue if you remove it.

I confirm I am using FWB HDT driver on mine, in combination with System 7.1.

Interesting point, I need to take my Portable out of the closet and check the driver (likely: FWB HDT, though)…

The “issue“ with the fan *might* be explained by the fan being regulated (or, in fact, not regulated) by the logic board. For the floppy, you absolutely need to make sure that the floppy drive and floppy disk are OK. By my experience, that generation of drives is sensitive to misalignment of the...

My two cents. I would basically agree with your statements: to the best of my understanding, too, the rod has no other function, except mechanical. However… I guess we can have more insight by considering the reason why a thick metal rod is broken that way and in that very position. Fatigue, no...

The rod is “U” shaped and symmetric, it is used for obvious assembling reasons. The epoxy is just a collar, so after removing the two nuts, you could have easily pulled the two u-shaped ferrite elements apart.

Yes, I had exactly the same issue, just much worse in terms of corrosion of the rod. The magnetic circuit is an assembly of two pieces which are kept together by the brass (?) rod. The sealing collar was aged and broken, I rebuilt it with some silicon sealant. Surely, I don‘t think it’s possible...

Not too difficult, indeed. There’s a metal bracket that keeps the three pieces together. There are two small nuts. In my case, the bracket was very rusty, to the point it was about to fall apart. I replaced it with a spare from a donor.

Personally, I had a flickering and wobbling SE/30, the image sometimes going dark altogether. I desoldered, dismantled and cleaned it thoroughly, replacing the metal bracket that was keeping the pieces together, which was heavily damaged by oxidation. I also rebuilt the insulation around the...

The symptom reminds me of a totally similar issue I had with a laser printer that would systematically shut down after a few secs. Eventually it was a blown resistor that would shut down the optocouplers. I have no clue, though, if the CC and derivatives do feature such a safety circuit or...

I have three CCs, each of them at a different mod level. Besides the You seem to have some corrosion on the lead of DP6, looks like a dent in the photo.

By chance, the same here. Unintentionally left the power cord connected to my Mystic and the power switch on. Back from holidays, the bloody thing was very warm to the touch…