Recent content by techknight

I dont remember, been suffering cognitive decline since covid. I do know it broke free once, it cant get a good bond on polycarb. I had to grind on the original plastic quite a bit to get a biting surface or it just, wouldnt stay. And it may not.

I do want to update this thread, that this issue has become a common problem. Had a prototype portable brought to me for repair, same issue. Got some misc portable parts for free in a parts lot, and same problem. Busted off hinge. On top of the two or three I have had to epoxy back into...

I mean, they are supposed to be stiff to hold up the weight and torsional forces of the entire upper display assembly, but they arent supposed to be too stiff. The springs rotate inside the jacket and that is your friction surface. You can aide in this by removing one of the springs to...

I don't remember. Been too long ago. Pretty sure it backfeeds the supercaps. Not really supported, but i suppose it works all the same.

Problem with comparing against photos are the 40 years of technology gap in between, including photography and lighting. Apples to oranges, not even worth arguing about. That energy can be spent elsewhere. As far as swapping CCFL bulbs? Never have. Why? Because I never had to. I only swap...

Very. I have run into it multiple times, and its because the hinges get stiff. 2 reasons. the hinge plastics shrink a bit, causing the springs to shrink and get hard to move, as well as the lubrication turns to putty. But also those old polycarb plastics are starting to get brittle in general...

That backlight level is normal from what I have seen. Mine is like that, all of the ones I have worked on are like that. Flickering is also normal on some of them I noticed, it depends on the severity. the inverter design is an odd duck but its early for the time period.

Bump. Do you by chance know which video cards work with the Portrait display?

Considering the application, it would likely work fine

The way I do it is look at the datasheet and see the recovery raitings, the voltage/current raitings and i use those details as filters to pick a new one on Mouser/Digikey. It is a fast recovery rectifier, aka shottky diode. According to the datasheet, its a 600V 1.8A Shottky. you can probably...

Oh he was at VCFMW, I ran into him a few times, he bounced someone over to me who was having a problem with an Apple II PSU.

I do all of those repairs too, but I only take them on with a case-by-case basis, and I only am able to do that stuff on the weekends. That may or may not be the case for him as well, so he could just be busy.

These boards all need fully resoldered, and fully recapped now. The solder joints have gotten atrocious on these boards. Also de-oxit the middle cable that goes between the front and the middle, which carry the video signals. As well as resoldering all of that. That usually takes care of most...

those white caps always crack. Its a white RIFA. Has to be changed.

Bumping this. I need the same thing, as my machines are missing the battery and battery door. the battery doors are brittle, and having a big hole there just isnt a good look.