Recent content by TheBasement

Ok, it was the Diode/Rectifier D6. Replacement available here https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Vishay-Semiconductors/BYV28-200-TAP?qs=yIvl1B2wDi7mFBLogVTbRA%3D%3D (thanks Kai for providing link) this was tricky to diagnose as there was no visual evidence of failure, and I certainly had a...

Swapped one of these from a known working power supply onto my dead one and it did the trick! This is the only place I could find on the internet where someone has mentioned this as a failure instead of all the other posts about the caps. So well done OP sir, you’ve helped me out. And hopefully...

Yes I did that first. Which is why I’m here now.

First of all I’m way in over my head on this repair, but I’m also stubborn so I would like to see it working again. Bought a DuoDock II with non working power supply, no volts on the output. Opened it up and replaced the problem cap that all other posts refer to, as well as a bunch of other...

Hey there, not sure if you’re still searching for this but I’ve got my duo ps apart (2 different ones) so thought I’d post the pictures of that diode. I can’t make out all of the numbers on it without removing it, but what I can see is BYV28-2(some more numbers but not sure)1332. Hope that’s...

Just reporting back on this. While it does work in the fact it allows screen input to register, it won’t stay calibrated. I think what is happening is the copper section has a vastly different resistance value than the carbon traces, and it is way out of spec for the controller to deal with...

I’ve never heard of any Ethernet device that will replace the modem. But you can get wifi on the new BlueSCSI devices, and just plug them into the scsi port on the back (with correct adapter) and keep the internal Hdd. Or you can get an AppleTalk to Ethernet adapter, but it’s not true Ethernet...

Well, against all odds I think I managed a fix of sorts. Kept gently scraping till I uncovered some of the conductive material, and then used kapton tape to stick some copper braid to it. Unconventional, definitely ghetto, but the screen is registering input.

You’re right, it’s part of the panel. 😞 I’ve found and bought another inoperative H1000 from eBay USA, so I may have some parts in a month or so 🤞

Hey I did a dumb thing and touched the digitiser ribbon cable with a soldering iron. It melted with a quickness. Are these actually repairable? I’ve tried a couple times already but that trace is getting shorter and shorter. I’m not sure it’s even metal, it looks like graphite or something? So...

Good to know. I tried using different fluids on some test pieces and windex sort of worked but the film kept lifting up again. I actually reached out to the supplier and asked about the method to stick it down and they just told me to go watch more YouTube videos.

Looks like a good screen. Pop the screen on the other machine, or try the Hdd from that machine in this one.

Does anyone know the difference between the early and late model displays. The later ones have slightly more native resolution, is there any other differences? what I really want to know, is can an early model LCD be used on a later model chassis? Connectors the same?

All good my friend, and I certainly didn’t mean anything negative by it. It’s a great and helpful community, and you’re welcome to be a part of it! Let us know how the parts machine turned out.

Depends if it’s worth it to you at $75. Hard to say if bits will be useful or not, although I’d almost guarantee the plastic standoffs are mostly broken. If the LCD panel is fine then it’s probably useful. I try not to pay more than $50 for a non working parts machine. By the way dude...