Recent content by TheBasement

Just reporting back on this. While it does work in the fact it allows screen input to register, it won’t stay calibrated. I think what is happening is the copper section has a vastly different resistance value than the carbon traces, and it is way out of spec for the controller to deal with...

I’ve never heard of any Ethernet device that will replace the modem. But you can get wifi on the new BlueSCSI devices, and just plug them into the scsi port on the back (with correct adapter) and keep the internal Hdd. Or you can get an AppleTalk to Ethernet adapter, but it’s not true Ethernet...

Well, against all odds I think I managed a fix of sorts. Kept gently scraping till I uncovered some of the conductive material, and then used kapton tape to stick some copper braid to it. Unconventional, definitely ghetto, but the screen is registering input.

You’re right, it’s part of the panel. 😞 I’ve found and bought another inoperative H1000 from eBay USA, so I may have some parts in a month or so 🤞

Hey I did a dumb thing and touched the digitiser ribbon cable with a soldering iron. It melted with a quickness. Are these actually repairable? I’ve tried a couple times already but that trace is getting shorter and shorter. I’m not sure it’s even metal, it looks like graphite or something? So...

Good to know. I tried using different fluids on some test pieces and windex sort of worked but the film kept lifting up again. I actually reached out to the supplier and asked about the method to stick it down and they just told me to go watch more YouTube videos.

Looks like a good screen. Pop the screen on the other machine, or try the Hdd from that machine in this one.

Does anyone know the difference between the early and late model displays. The later ones have slightly more native resolution, is there any other differences? what I really want to know, is can an early model LCD be used on a later model chassis? Connectors the same?

All good my friend, and I certainly didn’t mean anything negative by it. It’s a great and helpful community, and you’re welcome to be a part of it! Let us know how the parts machine turned out.

Depends if it’s worth it to you at $75. Hard to say if bits will be useful or not, although I’d almost guarantee the plastic standoffs are mostly broken. If the LCD panel is fine then it’s probably useful. I try not to pay more than $50 for a non working parts machine. By the way dude...

The off axis view angles are worse due to the gap between the polariser and lcd, and the display is glossier but that’s due to the semi gloss polariser I ordered. Next time I’ll buy matt. Sticking it to the panel would really be the best solution but I couldn’t figure out a way to do it without...

Hey all, I was inspired by @Ron's Computer Videos to have a go at fixing the vinegar syndrome lcd screen on a rather crusty PowerBook 540c. The process was made a bit more complex by the addition of industrial amounts of corrosion. Thankfully I had a 520c parts machine that was able to donate a...

Hey @Ron's Computer Videos how did you go sticking down the new polariser? I’ve had a real dickens on a time getting it stuck down without looking terrible. After wasting many pieces of polariser I’ve ended up not sticking it to the glass at all. It’s almost like the glue is too sticky and I end...

I’m attempting my first polariser replacement tomorrow on a rather sad and crusty 540c. Am videoing the process to add to the collective knowledge base. Until then, here’s a pic of the crusty insides of the 540c:

I think you’re over thinking it a bit. Just chuck the panel in the oven, on a tray or on a rack it doesn’t matter. Preheat or non preheat it doesn’t matter. Keep it below 100°C and bake for as long as you have patience for. Longer the better. Take care with reassembly getting everything...