Fan Controller in System Saver IIGS?

adfrost81 · 2025-02-21T03:50:26+0000

Another super simple question, but It involves electrical work don't want to screw it up. I got a Kensington System Saver IIGS to go with the Apple IIGS I just acquired. I've replaced the original Comair Rotron SU2C1 with a new Comair Rotron SU2B1, which flows much, MUCH more air, but also makes much, MUCH more noise. I'd like to tamp that down a bit. I figured a good way to do that would be a fan controller that I could just turn down and mount inside the case, as there is plenty of room.

I got this 120v AC Fan Controller from Amazon that should work and figure I could just snip the plug & connector off and place it in-line between the fan and the power board with some disconnect pairs. How do I make sure I get the wires plugged in correctly? I don't want to cross-connect something and ruin the new fan or worse.

Secondly, the case pretty yellowed and I'd like to redrobright it eventually. The only challenging part seems to be getting these plugs out. Is there a straightforward way to pull these apart & disconnect the wires so I can slide them through?

KennyPowers · 2025-02-21T04:59:38+0000

adfrost81 said:
I got this 120v AC Fan Controller from Amazon that should work and figure I could just snip the plug & connector off and place it in-line between the fan and the power board with some disconnect pairs. How do I make sure I get the wires plugged in correctly? I don't want to cross-connect something and ruin the new fan or worse.

Your AC fan likely doesn't care about polarity...it's alternating current...the positive and negative sides are constantly switching places. I am not an electrician, but I believe the reason one prong is sometimes bigger on 2-prong AC plugs in the US is a safety measure. Meaning the narrow blade is the "hot" wire (usually the black wire with in-wall wiring) and the wider blade is the "neutral" wire (usually the white wire with in-wall wiring). The neutral wire in home outlets is usually very close to the same voltage as ground. Inside the AC appliance, the neutral side is usually connected to any pieces where there's a greater chance of accidentally touching them. Think of a light bulb socket. The metal socket itself (that's easier to touch) might be connected to the neutral, while the contact buried in the bottom of the socket would be connected to hot. Since it's alternating current, the light bulb would still work if these were reversed, but it would be easier to accidentally touch something connected to "hot", possibly causing current to flow through your body to ground.

Long story short, your fan controller and fan will likely work regardless of which way you connect the wires, and they may have just used a polarized plug because it's what was available. Also, I don't see touch-points on the controller that would be a shock hazard, and you're enclosing it inside something anyways. I suppose, with the system saver switched on but unplugged, if there's direct continuity between the neutral hole on one of the outlets and one of the pins on the power board's fan header, then you could connect that pin to the wire connected to the wider blade on the fan controller's plug and that would then be oriented "the same" as if you plugged the fan controller directly into the wall, but I doubt it matters.

Secondly, the case pretty yellowed and I'd like to redrobright it eventually. The only challenging part seems to be getting these plugs out. Is there a straightforward way to pull these apart & disconnect the wires so I can slide them through?

I also restored and retrobrighted a System Saver IIGS a few years ago. I simply didn't retrobright that back piece since it's impossible to see, and wasn't really that yellowed. It just lifts straight out with all of the electronics still connected to it. Also, I replaced the rotted foam seal on the bottom with some foam tape of the correct width and thickness. I think I got it at Home Depot:

Nycturne · 2025-02-21T17:32:41+0000

KennyPowers said:
Long story short, your fan controller and fan will likely work regardless of which way you connect the wires, and they may have just used a polarized plug because it's what was available. Also, I don't see touch-points on the controller that would be a shock hazard, and you're enclosing it inside something anyways. I suppose, with the system saver switched on but unplugged, if there's direct continuity between the neutral hole on one of the outlets and one of the pins on the power board's fan header, then you could connect that pin to the wire connected to the wider blade on the fan controller's plug and that would then be oriented "the same" as if you plugged the fan controller directly into the wall, but I doubt it matters.

This is good information.

One thing I'd add is that I think I'd mostly just want to make sure that if you are inserting a switch somewhere, that you switch hot not neutral. The circuit works if you switch neutral, but as KennyPowers mentions, having more things energized is more of a shock hazard.

KennyPowers · 2025-02-21T19:34:03+0000

I mean, at the end of the day, you're enclosing the fan controller inside a sealed plastic box right next to a board with tons of exposed (when the enclosure is open) shock hazards. Operating the device with the enclosure open is already inherently risky because of that, and operating it with the enclosure sealed isn't going to be made any more dangerous IMO by wiring the fan controller "backwards".

YMK · 2025-02-21T19:52:24+0000

If you're modifying it to this extent, why not convert it to 12V?

12V fans typically have smaller hubs and more blade area than AC fans and will give you more airflow per dB.

They also won't have a 60Hz buzz and can be throttled more easily.

adfrost81 · 2025-02-22T06:14:49+0000

KennyPowers said:
Long story short, your fan controller and fan will likely work regardless of which way you connect the wires, and they may have just used a polarized plug because it's what was available. Also, I don't see touch-points on the controller that would be a shock hazard, and you're enclosing it inside something anyways. I suppose, with the system saver switched on but unplugged, if there's direct continuity between the neutral hole on one of the outlets and one of the pins on the power board's fan header, then you could connect that pin to the wire connected to the wider blade on the fan controller's plug and that would then be oriented "the same" as if you plugged the fan controller directly into the wall, but I doubt it matters.

Is this a case where wiring it backwards would just cause the fan to spin in reverse? As far as touch points...there shouldn't be any when all is said and done. The disconnects are fully covered as well.

KennyPowers said:
I also restored and retrobrighted a System Saver IIGS a few years ago. I simply didn't retrobright that back piece since it's impossible to see, and wasn't really that yellowed. It just lifts straight out with all of the electronics still connected to it. Also, I replaced the rotted foam seal on the bottom with some foam tape of the correct width and thickness. I think I got it at Home Depot:

Yeah, more than likely I'll just retrobright everything except that back plate. It's quite yellow, but I'll rarely see it anyway. And yeah...the foam was already pulled off on mine as well, so that will be getting replaced. Which retrobright method did you use, btw? I plan on doing a bunch of parts (the IIGS, monitor, a couple keyboards and mice).

Nycturne said:
This is good information.

One thing I'd add is that I think I'd mostly just want to make sure that if you are inserting a switch somewhere, that you switch hot not neutral. The circuit works if you switch neutral, but as KennyPowers mentions, having more things energized is more of a shock hazard.

Open to tips on how to make sure I'm not doing that! Both wires are black, but one has writing embossed on it.

KennyPowers said:
I mean, at the end of the day, you're enclosing the fan controller inside a sealed plastic box right next to a board with tons of exposed (when the enclosure is open) shock hazards. Operating the device with the enclosure open is already inherently risky because of that, and operating it with the enclosure sealed isn't going to be made any more dangerous IMO by wiring the fan controller "backwards".

The plan is to "set it and forget it". It will not be accessible from outside the case. I'll set it to low or medium, close the case up, and (hopefully) never think about it again.

YMK said:
If you're modifying it to this extent, why not convert it to 12V?

12V fans typically have smaller hubs and more blade area than AC fans and will give you more airflow per dB.

They also won't have a 60Hz buzz and can be throttled more easily.

I did consider it, but opted to go with the drop-in replacement. There aren't any 12v DC fans as thick (42 mm) that I'm aware of, so it would require some kind of spacer/funnel to seal the case the way the stock fan does. Also, I feel more confident wiring this up (it's just a couple disconnects) than I would wiring up some sort of 120v to 12v AC adapter in addition to a controller.

Thanks for the responses so far everyone!

KennyPowers · 2025-02-22T06:32:33+0000

adfrost81 said:
Is this a case where wiring it backwards would just cause the fan to spin in reverse?

No, because it's an AC fan. If it was a DC fan, then yes, but it's not.

Which retrobright method did you use, btw?

I just put the parts in big clear plastic storage bins, pour in a couple bottles of liquid 40 volume hair developer, and then fill with hose water until the parts are submerged. Then I leave them outside all day on a warm sunny day. I weigh down any larger floaters with a clear drinking glass full of water and move it around periodically. I'm sure there are more sophisticated methods, but that's always worked well for me and there's no risk of streaks or marbling like with a cream.

Search

Fan Controller in System Saver IIGS?

adfrost81

New Tinkerer

KennyPowers

Active Tinkerer

Nycturne

Tinkerer

KennyPowers

Active Tinkerer

YMK

Active Tinkerer

adfrost81

New Tinkerer

KennyPowers

Active Tinkerer