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My two cents. I would basically agree with your statements: to the best of my understanding, too, the rod has no other function, except mechanical. However… I guess we can have more insight by considering the reason why a thick metal rod is broken that way and in that very position. Fatigue, no...

The rod is “U” shaped and symmetric, it is used for obvious assembling reasons. The epoxy is just a collar, so after removing the two nuts, you could have easily pulled the two u-shaped ferrite elements apart.

Yes, I had exactly the same issue, just much worse in terms of corrosion of the rod. The magnetic circuit is an assembly of two pieces which are kept together by the brass (?) rod. The sealing collar was aged and broken, I rebuilt it with some silicon sealant. Surely, I don‘t think it’s possible...

Not too difficult, indeed. There’s a metal bracket that keeps the three pieces together. There are two small nuts. In my case, the bracket was very rusty, to the point it was about to fall apart. I replaced it with a spare from a donor.

Personally, I had a flickering and wobbling SE/30, the image sometimes going dark altogether. I desoldered, dismantled and cleaned it thoroughly, replacing the metal bracket that was keeping the pieces together, which was heavily damaged by oxidation. I also rebuilt the insulation around the...

The symptom reminds me of a totally similar issue I had with a laser printer that would systematically shut down after a few secs. Eventually it was a blown resistor that would shut down the optocouplers. I have no clue, though, if the CC and derivatives do feature such a safety circuit or...

I have three CCs, each of them at a different mod level. Besides the You seem to have some corrosion on the lead of DP6, looks like a dent in the photo.

By chance, the same here. Unintentionally left the power cord connected to my Mystic and the power switch on. Back from holidays, the bloody thing was very warm to the touch…

So, in the process you surely resoldered all the joints. In fact, you can’t really tell if the culprit was the flyback or the solder joints :) Anyhow, personally I got some issues with a fly back just once. The CRT would flicker and the image was unstable. There was a lot of corrosion around...

It's for comparing waveforms vs predetermined ones. If the current waveform does not conform, a signal can be sent as output. It's basically for running quality checks on production lines.

A tad of an overkill, I must admit... But it was there up for grab on Yahoo Auction, I was still living in Japan (meaning, as you know: you get what you see, perfectly packed and delivered with care), so, why not?:) And the shape factor is kind of familiar, too... :unsure:

I have poor experience with those miniaturized scopes: they work, but they are indeed tricky to use in practice. Besides, you may probably need at least 2 channels. So, on my end, not being a pro either, I eventually spent totally reasonable money (in the range of 120 USD) on a used, but still...

There’s a crack in the case of one capacitor (?) tucked between two transformers (?) and a big capacitor. Could be it was that, I need to desolder it. Now the Mac is back in the closet and there will remain for some time. I am planning to implement the stereo mod following your tutorial, I...

So, eventually, as I just didn't want to have another gut open Mac around, I reassembled it and... surprise, the issue is now gone. I have not modified anything, but could be that some cracked solder joints got somehow re-seated in the process. So, yeah, most likely it was the degauss...

Thanks for you support, I really appreciate it! Desoldering the whole connector has not been particularly difficult, even with a basic desoldering station like the one I have. I just wanted to avoid altering the board, so I figured out the least invasive solution possible. As for the current...

Thanks for the feedback and the support. DV11 is a diode, sure. At a closer inspection it seems to be labelled "BGF 1G G1". As for the pins 20 and 25, stupidly I did not document the process. However, please see in the picture how it looks from the back, underneath the metal cage. Both pins...

Below my take: I just desoldered and removed pins 20 and 25. It did work. Until today, when after many months and a intercontinental relocation in between, I restarted my Mystic for the first time. This time at 220V. A suspicious “pop” at the start up as the machine got energized and the...

I have recently spent some time for (successfully) reviving a dead NeXT LaserPrinter (Canon UX engine). Major takeaways: - almost all small size electrolytic capacitors were totally dead - PSU failure (in my case: a blown resistor) was the ultimate culprit - pick up rubber rollers were hardened...

Very interesting, thanks for sharing: it’s another confirmation that baking works better than desiccating. I have a 170 which initially had some very visible tunneling. I store it in a lightly vacuumed bag with some desiccating pouches. Progressively, over the time (mind: months), the tunnel...

I had fair success refurbishing non ejecting drives in my Cubes. The main issue is not in the elastic bands which become hard and slippery and ultimately loose, but in the similar issue affecting the ejection roller. After cleaning it thoroughly, lightly sanding off the hardened skin, I could...