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Is the power supply known good or is it the original? The originals always go bad due to failed capacitors, you need to be testing on a modern or recapped supply.

Definitely going to use this...BUT! What if fix-a-fork itself loses its resource fork in the transfer ;)

I unfortunately don't think there is an 8600 schematic around, although there have been some new ones surfacing recently, so who knows.

It could also be a short elsewhere that's causing those caps to appear shorted. Also, you should test the tantalums here. It's very rare, but they can short out.

I've personally found that anything other than epoxy or JB Weld does not hold if put under stress. I use a product called Plastruct Plastic Weld on my systems, and it works fine in places that aren't under stress. If a mount for the LCD, or a part inside breaks, I'll use it. I've found it...

Plastics epoxy is better suited. Regular superglue will do a bad job. Reinforced superglue (like the video above) would probably work a little better, but I'd just use plastics epoxy or JB weld. If it's powerbook standoffs though, I'd STRONGLY recommend you just 3D print new ones.

For the question of disassembly - the 100 series PowerBooks are very easy to take apart if you know how to do it right. The biggest worries are the display hinge standoffs failing when you unscrew them, in which case getting the display apart can suddenly get tough. Besides that though, I really...

All 90s laptops pretty much are brittle. These included. I’ve been meaning to make a guide at some point but I haven’t just yet.

There’s no chance that would work unfortunately. The original screen is made by Hosiden and will use a completely different method of connecting the glass to the electronics than that Panasonic panel.

Once this is figured out I should really start a list on my website with this info. This repair is only going to become more and more common as time goes on.

The 550c does, but those aren’t exactly easy to get a hold of.

I would agree. This isn’t exactly very transparent. If there’s a good legal reason why you can’t then I get that, but if there isn’t, I think people would like to know.

I'll be streaming my attempts live on my YouTube channel Saturday at 8AM EST! https://www.youtube.com/@3lectr1c

The green cap on the inverter is electrolytic, it’s only the purple ones that aren’t. Still, I haven’t yet replaced it on mine. I should do that. They’re not a must-do, but you should still do them if you can.

The three were all announced at the same time. The way I see it, that makes them all the “first” to me. That’s how I look at it anyways.

Owning both systems myself, I can say that I prefer the 100's screen. The 150's LCD is just VERY BLUE. It is its own kind of fun, but the 100's has less ghosting and is in general a better quality panel, at least in my opinion. One think I will give the 150's screen though is that it does not...

It’s probably going to be fine, just be careful not to flex the cable too much.

I wouldn't be very surprised if the Mac Plus fix was causing trouble here. The main concern with taking it apart too many times is damage to the interconnect cable. It's deceptively fragile! Internal sound doesn't work on my 170 anymore, and it quit working right after taking it apart. I highly...

I would also agree with this. I wanted a 100 since before I got my first PowerBook at all, but went through around half a dozen other ones first before I took the chance on one. Main reason behind this is that I wanted to be confident in my repair skills before attempting to bring one back...