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Yeah, explained that way, it makes logical sense. I'd definitely have the new components soldered in first (some capacitors and I think some diodes). All the switches should be good...I'm more concerned about the board! I used to have a couple keebs with Matias switches (Matias Quiet Pro and...

Is this a case where wiring it backwards would just cause the fan to spin in reverse? As far as touch points...there shouldn't be any when all is said and done. The disconnects are fully covered as well. Yeah, more than likely I'll just retrobright everything except that back plate. It's quite...

Another super simple question, but It involves electrical work don't want to screw it up. I got a Kensington System Saver IIGS to go with the Apple IIGS I just acquired. I've replaced the original Comair Rotron SU2C1 with a new Comair Rotron SU2B1, which flows much, MUCH more air, but also makes...

Thanks! That sounds pretty doable. I wasn't sure if solder would be enough or if I would need to "make" new pads somehow (probably with wire). Another question: would I need to resolder ALL of the switches in order to test the board? Or can I just replace what appears to be the bad components...

So I picked up a used and non-functioning AEKII for $20 at Free Geek in the Twin Cities, thinking it could be fun little repair project. Worst case, I ruin it, and it becomes a parts board, retrobright practice piece or maybe I get a replacement PCB. The main symptom is that all three lights...