Search results

Yeah if you pay a shop it’s advantageous to have them do as large of a batch of parts as possible. I did a bunch of SE/30 parts along with a full set of Lisa frame parts. It was also about $100 or so. But for the small MLB part you could do it yourself with a little piece of nickel or zinc you...

If you really want to make it nice, and keep it conductive, you could electroplate it. I had some SE frame parts done in zinc and this example in nickel. I sent them to a local shop, but it's definitely doable DIY too, especially for a smaller part like the MLB frame.

Just because they aren’t leaking doesn’t mean they’re in spec. Do you have access to an ESR meter to test them? What about that cap that looks like a SMD part on the power board. Is that really a tantalum or is it one of those sneaky electrolytics like those used in the newton? Other than...

It could be a lot of things, but it seems like a decent possibility something didn't get put back together correctly or was damaged on take-apart/reassembly. I'm sure you did already but can you confirm the video cable coming from the analog board was plugged into the logic board? Also, you...

Sata to Molex win a nice binhex?

Or maybe the contrast slider wasn't mated properly before. Regardless, that's great you got it working. Congrats!

The beep might be related to that reset button being connected unexpectedly. Did you have the device assembled when that happened? After the beeping stopped did you start hearing the *brrrrrang* startup chime? If so, maybe double check your display cable insertion. Also, did you make sure to...

Do you have a hot air station? I'd do a pass with the desolder gun then soak with hot air to get the stubborn joints to let go. You can then clear those joints more thoroughly with another pass of the gun, wick and/or solder needles. The preheater might help too, but shouldn't be necessary.

I went the AAA holder route for mine. I popped off the top bit to get it to fit. A little snug but it works.

After replacing a torn video ribbon cable, the eMate itself still failed to power on. I found the fuse at F1 was open. Patching it (temporarily) with a 0 Ohm resistor got it to power up without issue. Perhaps someone tried to insert a power adapter with the wrong polarity at some point. From...

Thanks for the link. ECL monochrome sounds about right. I think that might work okay with one of the PageView cards I have. If not those then I suspect this will work with the MicroMac cards I was tinkering with on another project. I'll give it a try and update with findings.

The back of this monitor has two model numbers listed: 01-MIR1503A and T1015-AT, but it seems like this would have been marketed as the PixelView 1. The ad in MacWorld for this model says it would have shipped with an interface card. What card would that have been? The manual doesn't seem to be...

Very nice find! Definitely looks like some stickers over the Radius badging. They were expensive displays so it makes sense they'd want to find a way to sell the excess inventory.

Just chiming in to share that I was able to get a Jaz drive to mount on a PowerBook G4 12" running 10.5.4 with a Castlewood Orb SCSI-USB adapter by setting the Jaz to ID 0. FWIW that adapter identifies as eUSCSI Bridge Ver 1.11 on the USB bus. This is a really nice bridge solution to get data...

In case this hasn't already been covered you can get a new cable from https://androda.work/product/emate-300-screen-flex-cable/ Make sure to add some washers under the screws to prevent future pop-out.

During a recent chat in the Tinker Different discord, someone asked for a post that acts as a Metcal buyers guide. I'll do my best to get you oriented with common models you should consider, their features, pros/cons, and tips when buying used. This won't be comprehensive and it'd be great to...

Just some post-repair notes in case it's helpful for others. I had a PowerBook 500 series AC adapter that had 16V for VBATT but ~2V for VMAIN when it should have been 16. I found the two 100uF caps noted below were way out of spec. The one next to the bulk caps was the ultimate culprit. The...

I found it on Archive.org by doing a text search :)

I'll take a shot at answering but get a second source since I'm not an expert and safety is a factor. An X capacitor is meant to be used line-to-line (i.e. between live and neutral) and is designed to fail short. If one fails, your fuse or circuit breaker would pop, preventing risk of shock. A...

I successfully updated to 1.55 but needed to modify the files @SuperSVGA posted since they had a bunch of extra blank space at the top. Once trimmed down, they worked fine. Reposting here with the adjusted files. For those new to this stuff, I used a TL866II+ programmer and minipro. minipro can...