Granted if you can find the right parts, there is NO Maths or calculations needed for this method. No 3D printing.
Parts:
- Old enlarger (Free Geek $5)
- Old webcam (Free Geek $1)
- Selfie light (Free Geek - FREE)
- small piece of flat metal to hold the selfie ring light above the lens (not shown)
- duct tape and zip ties
Disassemble the webcam. Remove any lens attachment.
This one has LEDs on the imager side which will inject unwanted light into the workings...
So I moved the LEDs to the opposite side of the PCB as the imager.
The negative holder (sandwich part of the photographic enlarger).
View attachment 22664
I made some notches for the wire connector and the mini microphone (not used, could have desoldered it).
I added some light-proof gaffer tape (duct tape in matt black).
No Maths involved. The imager is placed at the location where the negative would have been. The lens and the enlarger stand are already designed to work at this location. This photo shows the lens and bellows (already part of the enlarger) and the light supported with a metal ruler.
This photo shows the light supported by a piece of U-channel metal with the light zip-tied to it. This is max elevation on the enlarger, so the widest view possible.
A screen capture from the laptop at this setting (I will have to find a penny to compare with the other model).
And lowering the enlarger to nearly the bottom, but still being able to focus.
Screen capture from the computer.
I will post penny pics and some circuit boards later to compare.
Parts:
- Old enlarger (Free Geek $5)
- Old webcam (Free Geek $1)
- Selfie light (Free Geek - FREE)
- small piece of flat metal to hold the selfie ring light above the lens (not shown)
- duct tape and zip ties
Disassemble the webcam. Remove any lens attachment.
This one has LEDs on the imager side which will inject unwanted light into the workings...
So I moved the LEDs to the opposite side of the PCB as the imager.
The negative holder (sandwich part of the photographic enlarger).
View attachment 22664
I made some notches for the wire connector and the mini microphone (not used, could have desoldered it).
I added some light-proof gaffer tape (duct tape in matt black).
No Maths involved. The imager is placed at the location where the negative would have been. The lens and the enlarger stand are already designed to work at this location. This photo shows the lens and bellows (already part of the enlarger) and the light supported with a metal ruler.
This photo shows the light supported by a piece of U-channel metal with the light zip-tied to it. This is max elevation on the enlarger, so the widest view possible.
A screen capture from the laptop at this setting (I will have to find a penny to compare with the other model).
And lowering the enlarger to nearly the bottom, but still being able to focus.
Screen capture from the computer.
I will post penny pics and some circuit boards later to compare.
