Fixing cracked ABS plastic

alxlab

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A lot of the older Macintosh computer are suffering from brittle plastic. It's not too uncommon now to just open one and snap a few pieces off. The plastic with this problem is known as ABS. It also has a habbit of yellowing. Here's an example of a cd-rom tray that had the clips broken:

IMG_20211112_224132.jpg


What is one supposed to do in such a case? Well I guess crying is an option 😂 . Another option is glue/epoxy but that usually doesn't hold well.

The best solution for joing two pieces of ABS is solvent welding using acetone. This will actually dissolve the plastic and once the solvent has evaporated the plastic will be solid once more. So you can take a piece of broken ABS, put a TINY amount of acetone to wet the whole surface of the the crack parts and then put them together again.

I say TINY amount because it doesn't take a lot the dissolve the plastic. Put to much and you risk dissolving too much ruining the finish of the part. In or to put a small amount I put the acetone in a 10CC/ml syringe. That way you can apply smalls drops very accurately. The acetone doesn't seem to affect the plastic/rubber in a standard syringe but if you wanna be 100% safe you can also buy a glass syringe.

After applying the acetone and joining the parts together have a bit of time to fool around with placement. Like most repairs usually playing around with it too much can make things worse. If you spill any acetone on the surrounding plastic refrain from wiping. This will only cause the plastic to smudge and look worse. Same thing if some plastic squeezes out of the crack. Do not wipe. Wait until the plastic is solid again and then remove the extra plastic.

Let the welded parts sit a day or two to reach full strength again. Voila you now have a fixed part.

IMG_20211113_145426.jpg


The strength of the part will never be the same due to age but in my opinion this is one the best ways to salvage the parts you have.

In north american acetone can be bought at a hardware store in the paint section. I bought my syringes from aliexpress but they can be bought from amazon. If your in Canada you can also buy other plastic adhesives and solvents from https://plasticworld.ca.

Other notes:
Some of you might have notices that sometime different parts of a Mac turn yellow and others don't. That's because the other parts are not made from ABS. A Macintosh Portable for example is mainly made from a type of polycarbonate. I've tried acetone on broken Macintosh Portable parts and it didn't work very well. Maybe something like Dichloromethane (solvent) or methyl methacrylate (glue) would work better.
 

alxlab

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Found this great post about plastic solvents by 5wndwcpe at http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?threads/solvents-used-for-welding-plastics.2652/ which is worth repeating.

I recently ran across some useful info on plastics and their respective solvents and thought I'd pass it along. :highly_amused:

The process of solvent welding is simple. Apply solvent to the pieces you want to adhere, push the pieces together (not necessarily in that order), and then wait for the solvent (they are all very volatile) to evaporate into the environment and the polymer strands of the plastic to solidify. The most difficult part is thus finding solvents that will dissolve the plastic in question.

Safety Warning: most of these solvents are toxic. Do not inhale them, especially deliberately. Use in a very well ventilated area. They are also highly volatile and thus flammable. Keep away from open flames. Do not smoke while applying solvents.

On solubility

The following is an incomplete list of the most common plastics used in Nerf and their compatibility with common solvents. A "Y" indicates that the solvent will dissolve the plastic in question. A "N" indicates that the solvent is not recommended for use with that plastic. Either it does not dissolve the plastic at all or does so poorly.

Polymethyl methacrylate (Acrylic)
- 1,2 Dichloroethane: Y
- Acetone: Y
- Cyclohexanone: Y
- Dichloromethane: Y
- MEK: Y
- Methyl benzene: Y
- Tetrahydrofuran: Y

Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS)
- 1,2 Dichloroethane: Y
- Acetone: Y
- Cyclohexanone: Y
- Dichloromethane: N
- MEK: Y
- Methyl benzene: N
- Tetrahydrofuran: N

Polyacetal (Delrin - POM)
- 1,2 Dichloroethane: N
- Acetone: N
- Cyclohexanone: N
- Dichloromethane: N
- MEK: Y
- Methyl benzene: Y
- Tetrahydrofuran: N

Cellulose acetate butyrate (Butyrate)
- 1,2 Dichloroethane: Y
- Acetone: Y
- Cyclohexanone: Y
- Dichloromethane: Y
- MEK: Y
- Methyl benzene: Y
- Tetrahydrofuran: Y

Cross-linked low density polyethylene (PEX)
- 1,2 Dichloroethane: Y
- Acetone: Y (at 100%)
- Cyclohexanone: N
- Dichloromethane: Y
- MEK: N
- Methyl benzene: Y
- Tetrahydrofuran: Y

Low density polyethylene (LDPE)
- 1,2 Dichloroethane: Y
- Acetone: Y
- Cyclohexanone: Y
- Dichloromethane: Y
- MEK: Y
- Methyl benzene: N
- Tetrahydrofuran: N

High density polyethylene (HDPE)
- 1,2 Dichloroethane: Y
- Acetone: Y
- Cyclohexanone: N
- Dichloromethane: N
- MEK: Y
- Methyl benzene: Y
- Tetrahydrofuran: N

Ultra high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMW)
- 1,2 Dichloroethane: N
- Acetone: N
- Cyclohexanone: N
- Dichloromethane: Y
- MEK: N
- Methyl benzene: Y
- Tetrahydrofuran: N

Nylon
- 1,2 Dichloroethane: N
- Acetone: N
- Cyclohexanone: N
- Dichloromethane: N
- MEK: N
- Methyl benzene: N
- Tetrahydrofuran: N

Polycarbonate
- 1,2 Dichloroethane: Y
- Acetone: Y
- Cyclohexanone: Y
- Dichloromethane: Y
- MEK: Y
- Methyl benzene: Y
- Tetrahydrofuran: Y

Polyester (Polyethylene terephthalate - PET)
- 1,2 Dichloroethane: Y
- Acetone: Y
- Cyclohexanone: N
- Dichloromethane: Y
- MEK: N
- Methyl benzene: N
- Tetrahydrofuran: Y

Copolyester (Polyethylene terephthalate glycol - PETG)
- 1,2 Dichloroethane: Y
- Acetone: Y
- Cyclohexanone: Y
- Dichloromethane: Y
- MEK: Y
- Methyl benzene: Y
- Tetrahydrofuran: Y

Polypropylene
- 1,2 Dichloroethane: Y
- Acetone: Y
- Cyclohexanone: N
- Dichloromethane: Y
- MEK: N
- Methyl benzene: Y
- Tetrahydrofuran: N

Polystyrene
- 1,2 Dichloroethane: Y
- Acetone: Y
- Cyclohexanone: Y
- Dichloromethane: Y
- MEK: Y
- Methyl benzene: Y
- Tetrahydrofuran: Y

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC)*
- 1,2 Dichloroethane: Y
- Acetone: Y
- Cyclohexanone: Y
- Dichloromethane: Y
- MEK: Y
- Methyl benzene: Y
- Tetrahydrofuran: Y
*Includes PVC in pipe and flexible tube, as well as CPVC as we use it, since our CPVC is simply Copper-sized PVC and not Chlorinated PVC.

Teflon (TFE)
- 1,2 Dichloroethane: N
- Acetone: N
- Cyclohexanone: N
- Dichloromethane: N
- MEK: N
- Methyl benzene: N
- Tetrahydrofuran: N

On solvents

1,2 Dichloroethane: Also known as Ethylene dichloride. Found in paint removers.
Acetone: Found in small quantities in nail polish remover. Also found in various plastic cements. Also found in acrylic paint thinners and varnishes. Can be bought pure.
Cyclohexanone: Found in plastic cement, particularly ABS and PVC pipe cement.
Dichloromethane: Also known as Methylene chloride. Found primarily in paint stripper. Used as an industrial solvent. Banned in Europe.
Methyl ethyl ketone (MEK): Also known as Butanone. A large component of almost all plastic cements especially ABS and polystyrene cement. Can be bought pure.
Methyl benzene: Also known as Toluene. Used mostly as a paint thinner or paint remover. Found along with MEK in polystyrene model kit cement.
Tetrahydrofuran: Found almost exclusively in PVC cement. Can also be in some varnishes.

Plastic cement is generally comprised of a solvent (or mixture of solvents) along with dissolve plastic resin of the plastic in question. Thus PVC cement will contain dissolved PVC along with the solvents.
Examples:
Genova ABS cement is around 20% Acetone, 60% MEK, and 20% ABS resin.
Oatey Green Transition cement is around 40% Tetrahydrofuran, 35% Acetone and MEK, 10% Cyclohexanone, and 15% PVC resin.
Look either on the can or search for Material Safety Data Sheets for the ingredients and quantities, and then look up which plastics these will work with.
 

displaced

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I’ve used MEK solvent instead of acetone with great success.

It is, however, horrible stuff. Open those windows, set up a fan to blow fumes away from you and do not, in any circumstances, take a sniff ‘just to see’.

But the results are magical, especially on clean breaks.
 

RetroViator

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I used JB Weld Plastic Bond to try to repair my iMac G3 inner bezel. While I had lots of little pieces left over, I got the main supports put back together. However, as soon as I reattached the CRT, the other screw mounts previously not broken decided to crack. That is such a cursed part in an otherwise nice computer.
229A4872-C6A3-4FF0-9F3C-D3B1BECDFF9A.jpeg
 
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Certificate of Excellence

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I always wondered if there was a product that could be sprayed to the interior of ABS plastic (others as well) that could help add strength. I am no chemist but envisioned some chemical blend that goes on via aerosol and you let cure on the underside of the plastic bits. What would that be? Like spray acetone? Dont know if something like that exists but sure seems like it would be a worth while investment for retro mac folks working on old boxes.
 

alxlab

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There' is acetone spray but man that would wreck the surface of whatever abs part your spraying. Break cleaner and spray foam gun cleaner is acetone in a spray can if you wanna play around with it anyhow :p

Unfortunately there's no magical solution to restoring plastics. You can look at articles like this one on National Geographic, The Race to Save Historic Plastic Artifacts, to see even museums with more highly prized artifacts are struggling with the issue.

I'm sure people are doing research in the matter but the technology is just not there yet.

For rubber restoration I've heard Fedron works well. It doesn't look like it's available anymore though. MG Chemical also makes a product called Rubber Renue which has good reviews.
 

Certificate of Excellence

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There' is acetone spray but man that would wreck the surface of whatever abs part your spraying. Break cleaner and spray foam gun cleaner is acetone in a spray can if you wanna play around with it anyhow :p

Unfortunately there's no magical solution to restoring plastics. You can look at articles like this one on National Geographic, The Race to Save Historic Plastic Artifacts, to see even museums with more highly prized artifacts are struggling with the issue.

I'm sure people are doing research in the matter but the technology is just not there yet.

For rubber restoration I've heard Fedron works well. It doesn't look like it's available anymore though. MG Chemical also makes a product called Rubber Renue which has good reviews.
I was thinking about applying specifically the plastics interior side, not exterior - the non user facing bits as to maintain the exterior asthetic. Anyhow, spray the interior with something that destabilizes the surface but cures back a little better, a bit more robust - less prone to cracking/snapping off etc. Acetone based bonding agents seems to do the job well enough with toy restoration (broken hinges, tabs, bits n bobs lol). There are quite a few chemicals it seems per the list linked to earlier that could do this - pure acetone stood out to me as one that hit about 85% of the plastic types listed and most used in old wrinkly macs.

Coincidence as I was looking at pure acetone just yesterday at the hardware store.
 

Fizzbinn

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Nov 29, 2021
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I’ve used MEK solvent instead of acetone with great success.

It is, however, horrible stuff. Open those windows, set up a fan to blow fumes away from you and do not, in any circumstances, take a sniff ‘just to see’.

But the results are magical, especially on clean breaks.

I just started using "WELD-ON 2354 Solvent Cement" which is MEK based, not too expensive:


Weld-On® 2354 is a fast drying clear solvent cement. Because it is water thin, it can be applied by brush, syringe, spray, and most other methods. It forms bonds by the softening and fusion of the two surfaces in contact, then cures rapidly. Within a few minutes bonded items should be of sufficient strength to handle. Relatively high strength is reached in 24 to 48 hours and continues to increase for a number of weeks. Joined material generally maintain the same physical properties, including original rigidity or flexibility. Exceptional at bonding like to like ABS, styrene (general purpose high impact), acrylics and polycarbonates to themselves.

It basically melts/fuses broken pieces back together, so a little goes a long way!
 

lobust

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I use EMA Plastic Weld which I am pretty sure is also MEK based, and it works fantastically. I repaired a shattered front bezel of a 17" Multiple Scan, and most of the joins are barely visible from the outside. On the inside I stuck everything together with the Plastic Weld and then reinforced it with copious amounts of ABS/acetone gunk.
 

ScutBoy

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For things like screw mounts/bosses that are not visible from the exterior, I've taken JB Weld and built it up on the outside of the mount to add extra strength. This has worked particularly well on the older Powerbooks, for example.

If you are a risk taker, you can also "remake" a screw boss by embedding the nut in tacky JB Weld and letting it harden around the nut. Best done with the screw also in place so you can turn it out afterwards and ensure correct alignment.
 

pocketscience

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A Macintosh Portable for example is mainly made from a type of polycarbonate. I've tried acetone on broken Macintosh Portable parts and it didn't work very well. Maybe something like Dichloromethane (solvent) or methyl methacrylate (glue) would work better.
Does anyone have any experience with repairing a Portable bottom casing? Mine literally just fell apart as I was carefully putting it away. I’m gutted. The rear right corner came off in one big piece, and took the latch/button with it. :(
 

Elemenoh

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I wonder if there’s a way to reverse the state of brittle plastic. Perhaps heating it for some time just below its melting point would help?

Anyone know the chemistry of ABS and other plastics used in these products well enough to know what if anything might help?