If you're on the fence between a MP120/130 vs a MP2000/2100...

[MindThreat]

Shoot for the 2000/2100

When I had sought out and received the MP130, I had thought it was the perfect size and would do the job just fine. Actually, the larger size of the MP2K was what put me off going after it originally. Curiosity sat in and I found the perfect MP2K (upgraded to 2100 even) for an unreal price so I couldn't pass it up.

I was wrong about the slightly larger size being a concerning issue. Not only does it boast an insanely faster processor, the smidge of extra writing space is fantastic as well as having the key functions on the bottom illuminated in the dark. While it may just be my display on the MP130, the MP2K also appears to be much brighter. Though this could just be the MP130 I own having been used a lot, though it doesn't appear to have been.

 

[splorp]

Another great thing about the MP2x00 series is the customizable “soft buttons” at the bottom of the screen as opposed to the preset group of buttons on the MP1x0 devices.

If you really want to power up the interface of the MP2x00, check out Mason Mark’s Dash Board.

And make sure to read the background story about this amazing piece of software …

 

[Towmater]

Did your rubberized coating turn to goo?

 

[splorp]

Did your rubberized coating turn to goo?

I own several dozen Newton devices and none of the rubberized coating have ever “gooed” up on me. Maybe it has something to do with the relatively low humidity we have here on western Canada. Possibly related … I have hardly ever had a battery go “ballistic” on me in a vintage computer. I’ve only experienced two batteries go “kablooey” (to quote Calvin) out of dozens of Mac motherboards in my collecting days.

 

[MindThreat]

Did your rubberized coating turn to goo?

I've seen a lot of photos who have had theirs become sticky or used to a decaying degree so that could be an offset in regards to the 2K series. Good to point out but not a deal breaker if you get one in decent condition.

 

[alex_santos]

My Newtons have gummed up. I wipe them from time to time. Most unfortunate.

I wonder if this process would work, granted the color would differ and the little silver Newton would get painted over.

 

[LongAlphabet]

My Newtons have gummed up. I wipe them from time to time. Most unfortunate.

I've got a recent (to me) 2100 - and it's coating is "sticky" - but not goo per se yet. Western part of canada too, oddly enough! I don't dare touch it with rubbing alcohol, as I don't want to remove the coating, but I have used that solution to remove "gooed" MS mouse rubberized texture, in the past.

 

[Towmater]

I did the opposite, alcohol and wiping removed all of the coating, leaving nice, shiny plastic.

 

[alex_santos]

I did the opposite, alcohol and wiping removed all of the coating, leaving nice, shiny plastic.

Yeah, not sure I want to do that. Wouldn't that have wiped out the branding on the device, namely the silver text that reads "Newton 2100" etc?

 

[LongAlphabet]

I did the opposite, alcohol and wiping removed all of the coating, leaving nice, shiny plastic.

I've done this with a Microsoft mouse where the coating was.. getting funky. Yes, it worked well, however, I'd like to keep the Newton's exterior as original possible. I wish there was a restorative "talc powder" for industrial products, hah.