Powerbook 180 & Tunnel Vision

Neo117

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May 26, 2025
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Sorry for the long post, but I needed to explain what I had done in order for my questions to make any sense. Note this this is just a record of what I did for the purpose of explaining my questions at the end of the post.

I recently came into possession of a couple of Powerbooks and started working on refurbishing them. The Powerbook 180 had a tunnel vision problem with the lcd screen as can be seen in the picture below (condition at 41 minutes after startup):

Screenshot 2025-05-31 at 5.46.08 PM.png


I decided to try to fix the tunnel vision issue and read some articles on the internet about potential causes. I found two potential fixes so I decided to try them in order of difficulty. First, I tried placing the lcd in a closed container with desiccants for ten days to see if that had any impact on the lcd tunnel vision. The picture below shows the laptop and lcd in a dry box with a humidity of 15% where it remained for ten days:

Screenshot 2025-05-31 at 5.46.26 PM.png


Unfortunately, after those ten days, I saw no real change in the lcd as shown in the picture below (condition at 45 minutes after startup):

Screenshot 2025-05-31 at 5.46.42 PM.png


Next, I decided to try baking the lcd as I had heard that baking could possibly help with tunnel vision. I removed the lcd from the laptop. Note that the half of the metal tabs twist clock-wise and half twist counter-clock-wise for removal. Then I setup an old toaster oven that I had (I didn't want to use an oven that would ever again be used for food in the future as I didn't want to risk contaminating it.) Below is a picture of the toaster oven with tray and parchment paper:

Screenshot 2025-06-13 at 4.26.09 PM.png


I ran a test with the toaster oven without the lcd to see how stable the temperatures would be. The lowest temperature setting for the toaster oven was 200F. I used a wired digital grilling thermometer to measure temperatures during the test. When the oven was set to 200F, the temperatures varied from 185F to 197F sinusoidally over a ~10 minute period. In order to stabilize the temperatures somewhat and prevent localized hot spots on the lcd, I placed the lcd on a sheet of parchment paper on a tray, then I placed another sheet of parchment paper on top of the lcd (neither sheet of paper touching the lcd screen.) By placing the paper on top and below the lcd, it created a pocket of air between the sheets where the temperature was stabilized to roughly 191F +/- 3F with a ten minute period. Below is a picture of the lcd and parchment paper in the tray:

Screenshot 2025-05-31 at 5.47.14 PM.png


Note that weights were necessary to keep the top sheet from being blown around during oven operation. I ran the oven for 5 hours with this setup (lcd experiencing 191F +/- 3F with a ~10 minute period.) The oven wasn't designed to operate for this length of time even at the lowest temperature so the exterior got hot, and I burnt my finger. After that, I allowed the oven and lcd to cool to room temperature naturally with the oven off and power unplugged.

After the lcd and oven reached room temperature, I reinstalled the lcd in the laptop so I could see if there was any improvement. Note that as I mentioned before that half of the tabs twist clock-wise and half twist counter-clock-wise so there wasn't much / any slop in the positioning of the lcd during installation. Once everything was reconnected, I turned on the laptop and discovered that there was significant improvement. Below is a picture of the laptop lcd after 42 minutes of operation:

Screenshot 2025-05-31 at 5.47.29 PM.png


Oddly, the lcd continued to improve over the approximately 3 to 4 days after baking despite just siting in the laptop not being used. In the end, this is what the laptop lcd looked like after those 3 to 4 days (note that the interference pattern is not visible to the eye - not sure why the camera shows that):

Screenshot 2025-05-31 at 5.48.01 PM.png


Note that this picture is after an hour of operation.

Finally, here are my questions for others that have done a similar repair on their 180 lcds:

1. Do you think that the ten days in the dry box improved the effectiveness of the oven baking? Moisture removal, etc?

2. Or was the problem actually that the adhesive between layers needed to be reflowed, and the time in the dry box did nothing at all?

3. Why did the lcd continue to improve over the 3 to 4 days after removal from the oven?

4. After the baking of the lcd, I have noticed a faint ghosting of windows that have been displayed for 40 to 60 minutes on a dark background. Is this due to the baking of the lcd or is this just the nature of some of the early active matrix displays? Barely noticeable in person to be honest and disappears fairly quickly. See the picture below for an example of a ghosted window after being displayed for ~60 minutes on a dark background:

Screenshot 2025-05-31 at 5.48.15 PM.png


5. Is this typical behavior of an lcd with tunnel vision or is this unique to my Powerbook 180 (sample size of one after all)?

6. Is the problem really moisture or the need to reflow the adhesive between layers?

Before I work on the next Powerbook (which is in awesome shape save the lcd), I want to make sure that I'm not doing something stupid and damaging the lcd beyond repair in the long term. Any guidance or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
 
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JDW

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Sadly, I don't own any of those models, and because of that, I have no answers to your important questions.

My concern would be that if HUMIDITY was the root problem, the tunnel vision would come back over time because you wouldn't leave it in a sealed container with desiccants all the time.

I'm also curious if ALL those PB180 models are affected by tunnel vision, and if not, why would that be? I guess we could say some people live in drier areas than others, but it would be nice to compile data about the people who have the problem and where they live, and how long they've had the machine.

I'd also love to see a video of the window "ghosting" you mention.
 

JDW

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You seem to be talking about this very faint ghost window...
1751951985592.png


How long before it vanishes completely, or does it never vanish until power is cycled?
 

Neo117

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May 26, 2025
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If you power cycle it, then it vanishes instantly. If you don't power cycle it then it takes about 6-10 minutes to disappear. It is a little difficult to get an exact time because it is so faint as it disappears. Also, if you move another window across the area containing the ghost image, it is gone, and you can't see it anymore. It really doesn't impact usage and you have to really look for it to see it, so I may be asking too much for perfection given the age of the computer.

However, I think it is tied to the tunnel vision and not the baking of the lcd. I was able to look at a friend's powerbook 180 that is in better condition than this one but has a slight issue with the lcd. See the pictures below for the 2nd powerbook 180's lcd after 30min:

Screenshot 2025-07-08 at 6.58.25 PM.png
Screenshot 2025-07-08 at 6.58.39 PM.png


This is as bad as the lcd gets on this 2nd powerbook 180, and there has been no baking or desiccant treatments on it (or any refurbishment for that matter.) One thing that I noticed on this one is that you do see the faint ghosting on the very right side of the display if you leave a window up for a long time, but not on the left side of the display. As a result, I'm thinking that the ghosting may be related to the tunnel vision, but it isn't impacted by the baking of the lcd. I tried to get a picture of the ghosting effect on this one, but I couldn't get the camera to pick it up as it is extremely faint.
 
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JDW

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I recently did a video about the ZigZagJoe LCD Color Kit for the SE/30, which is a fantastic product. It makes me quite sad there is no similar solution for the PowerBooks. That old tech degrades, and while I'm shocked at how well your bake worked, the fact is the tech hasn't de-aged as a result of the baking. It will probably at some point go back to tunnel vision. It's kind of like baking the graphics card in 2009 era iMac's. It works a few times, and then the card dies, and you must seek other options. But when it comes to PowerBooks, there are no "other options" it would seem, in terms of a modern LCD replacement.
 

Neo117

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I have similar concerns about the LCD going back to tunnel vision at some point. That was one of the reasons why the ghosting concerns me even though it is very hard to see in person. I bought a bundle of four PowerBooks with the hope of being able to make one functional laptop from all the parts which I feel that I have been able to do. I now have the one functional PowerBook 180 laptop with the baked LCD and a BlueSCSI V2 that is working really well at the moment, but I don't know for how long. The other three PowerBooks were another 180 (fully functional electronics boards but the casing is in bad shape), a 170 (parts machine as previous owner tried to "fix" it but didn't know what they were doing,) and a 145B with almost all standoffs broken and plastic issues, etc.

For my next project, I'm going to see if I can design a micro-tower case that I can use with the electronics from the other 180 and see if I can set it up with an external monitor and keyboard/mouse. I'll have to see if this is possible, but it will give me a chance to experiment with my 3D printer and scanner. Probably a crazy idea but it will be fun to try and I already have parts on hand for the build.
 
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3lectr1c

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I have a PB180 with an essentially flawless display (if you look extremely closely after an hour and a half of running, you can see the faintest of faint darkening in the left corners, faint enough that it's impossible to see on camera). I'll see if it ghosts at all tomorrow. I'm fairly certain it's a normal thing for this type of display though, I believe that Mac OS actually has a warning about this built-in for the Macintosh Portable. I forget how to trigger it.
 

JDW

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I have a 5126 Backlit Portable, and there are some very minor areas of darkness, but nothing on order of what this thread is showing. I also am aware there is no modern replacement for the LCDs used on the Portable, but is the same true of PowerBooks? They are all custom made panels?
 

Paolo B

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Very interesting, thanks for sharing: it’s another confirmation that baking works better than desiccating.
I have a 170 which initially had some very visible tunneling. I store it in a lightly vacuumed bag with some desiccating pouches.
Progressively, over the time (mind: months), the tunnel effect has significantly improved, but not to the (almost perfect) extent you have obtained.
Or, more precisely, now when I start the PB the screen is perfect, but after some 30 mins or so the tunnel effect becomes visible around the corners.
So, my guess is that it’s a mix of humidity and glueing layers. Likely, the glueing layers are faulting allowing some humidity to seep in.
Baking may address both issues: extracting the humidity and somehow “reflowing” the layers (thermo plastic glue?).