Last week I was attempting to swap a good Rev. C passive matrix display from a parts 160 to a 145 that had a damaged Rev. B passive matrix display. Because I'm a reckless idiot, I let the display fall over while it was still connected. Of course the display cable ripped clean in half near the hinge, like dry parchment.
Since the cables between Rev. A / C and Rev. B displays are not interchangeable, I decided to try and fix the ripped cable. If it didn't work, it didn't matter. If it did work, then cool. I decided the easiest route to take was to replace the narrow dog leg with wires, soldering to the larger traces instead of trying to mend the tear. So I trimmed off the dog leg, then used a scalpel to scrape off the mask of each trace. I then tinned each exposed trace to make pads.
I used an old USB cable for as a source for thin, insulated, stranded wire - since I don't have any small gauge stranded jumper wire handy. I measured the wire to match the dog leg, then trimmed and tinned both ends of each wire. I soldered one end of each wire to the connector, fed as many as I could through the ferrite core (not all would fit), then soldered the other ends.
A quick test confirmed it worked.
To lock everything down, I coated all soldered connections (and any exposed wire) with epoxy overcoat. I then started fitting everything back together. It's a TIGHT fit, but everything does indeed fit....
(I noticed after taking the pic I put the 160's clutch cover on... I've since swapped in right one.)
I honestly didn't think this was going to work, as there really isn't a lot of room for much more than a flat flex cable around the hinge assembly. I'm a little nervous opening and closing the display, but so far it's working just fine. But if any cable recreations pop up, I'll be grabbing a few.
Since the cables between Rev. A / C and Rev. B displays are not interchangeable, I decided to try and fix the ripped cable. If it didn't work, it didn't matter. If it did work, then cool. I decided the easiest route to take was to replace the narrow dog leg with wires, soldering to the larger traces instead of trying to mend the tear. So I trimmed off the dog leg, then used a scalpel to scrape off the mask of each trace. I then tinned each exposed trace to make pads.
I used an old USB cable for as a source for thin, insulated, stranded wire - since I don't have any small gauge stranded jumper wire handy. I measured the wire to match the dog leg, then trimmed and tinned both ends of each wire. I soldered one end of each wire to the connector, fed as many as I could through the ferrite core (not all would fit), then soldered the other ends.
A quick test confirmed it worked.
To lock everything down, I coated all soldered connections (and any exposed wire) with epoxy overcoat. I then started fitting everything back together. It's a TIGHT fit, but everything does indeed fit....
(I noticed after taking the pic I put the 160's clutch cover on... I've since swapped in right one.)
I honestly didn't think this was going to work, as there really isn't a lot of room for much more than a flat flex cable around the hinge assembly. I'm a little nervous opening and closing the display, but so far it's working just fine. But if any cable recreations pop up, I'll be grabbing a few.
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