I got my hands on an Apple II Plus along with this Apple IIe monitor which had no vertical drive for about $170 USD, which I think was a great deal.
This (above) is the only picture of the monitor that existed in the listed auction, the description was vague. Upon receiving the monitor, it turned out to be an Apple Monochrome Monitor IIe A2M6017 produced in 1987. It was heavily yellowed as seen in these initial pictures I took.
Looking inside, I could see this set has had lots of hours on it. Thankfully, the screen itself has no burn in.
First I noted all the electrolytic capacitors and replaced them.
*For above capacitors without a listed lead spacing, it doesn't matter because these capacitors aren't flush against the board.
The only electrolytic I didn't replace was the bipolar capacitor C420 as it wasn't really necessary in my case. In addition to the capacitors, I also replaced the power regulator (L78S15CV) as the voltage output was showing around 17v instead of 16v.
After replacing all the capacitors, my vertical drive still didn't work.
At first I suspected the the TDA1170N chip as the output voltages were off when compared to the service manual.
After replacing it, however, there was no change and still no vertical drive.
Then I finally noticed that 2 of the 3 potentiometers that stick out the back of the monitor are completely open. There was no reviving these pots. I took them apart, and it seems that the material on the plates near the connection completely corroded (I'm assuming) leaving no conductivity on any of the points shown in the image below.
Searching online, I couldn't find a pot that looked very similar. So I went to my local electronics store in Akihabara and found a equivalent replacement linear 100k pots.
.
These high quality replacement pots (JH16K4B104L20KC) cost me only 40 JPY (about $0.30 each) at the store.
The legs didn't exactly match, so I clipped off the legs from the old potentiometers and put them on the new ones to get an exact fit. Once I verified that they reach out the same distance and don't interfere with the case, I replaced all three.
With the pots replaced, I finally got a good picture output.
During this whole time it was taken apart, I washed the case and left it out in the sun for about a week.
Amazing improvement as seen above, but I still went ahead and did two short sessions (two separate days) of retrobright using the cream method.
After putting it back together here is the final result. It came out great, especially when comparing to before picture.
Finally, the badge on the front is quite faded. I'm considering replacing it with one from maceffects in the future.
The Apple II Plus which came with this monitor needs a separate restoration, still working on that.
This (above) is the only picture of the monitor that existed in the listed auction, the description was vague. Upon receiving the monitor, it turned out to be an Apple Monochrome Monitor IIe A2M6017 produced in 1987. It was heavily yellowed as seen in these initial pictures I took.
Looking inside, I could see this set has had lots of hours on it. Thankfully, the screen itself has no burn in.
First I noted all the electrolytic capacitors and replaced them.
| Label | Capacitance | Voltage | Diameter | Lead Spacing | Type | Replacement Part |
| C101 | 22uf | 25v | 5mm | Radial | UPM1V220MDD1TD | |
| C113 | 10uf | 25v | 5mm | Radial | UHE1H100MDD or UPV1H100MFD | |
| C109 | 10uf | 25v | 5mm | Radial | UHE1H100MDD or UPV1H100MFD | |
| C102 | 220uf | 25v | 10mm | 5mm | Radial | UHE1H221MPD1TD |
| C108 | 220uf | 25v | 10mm | 5mm | Radial | UHE1H221MPD1TD |
| C110 | 470uf | 16v | 10mm | 5mm | Radial | UHE1C471MPD6 |
| C104 | 22uf | 25v | 5mm | Radial | UPM1V220MDD1TD | |
| C203 | 100uf | 25v | 8mm | 5mm | Radial | EEU-FR1V101B |
| C209 | 1uf | 50v | 5mm | Radial | UVZ1H010MDD1TA | |
| C205 | 220uf | 63v | 13mm | 5mm | Radial | UHE2A221MHD |
| C603 | 47uf | 25v | 6mm | Radial | ULD1H470MED1TD | |
| C307 | 3.3uf | 50v | 5mm | Radial | UHE1H3R3MDD | |
| C601 | 3300uf | 35v | 22mm | 9mm | Radial | UVR1H332MRD6 |
| C303 | 100uf | 25v | 8mm | 5mm | Radial | EEU-FR1V101B |
| C308 | 1000uf | 16v | 13mm | 5mm | Radial | UPJ1E102MHD |
| C411 | 4.7uf | 100v | 5mm | Radial | ULD2A4R7MDD | |
| C501 | 10uf | 160v | 10mm | 5mm | Radial | UCA2E100MPD |
| C502 | 3.3uf | 50v | 5mm | Radial | UHE1H3R3MDD | |
| C416 | 100uf | 100v | 13mm | 5mm | Radial | UCS2C101MHD1TO |
| C420 | 16uf | 25v | 16mm | 7mm | Radial | Bipolar Samyoung CE04P |
| C417 | 1000uf | 25v | 13mm | 5mm | Radial | UPJ1E102MHD |
| C412 | 100uf | 25v | 8mm | 5mm | Radial | EEU-FR1V101B |
| C407 | 4.7uf | 50v | 5mm | Radial | ULD1H4R7MDD1TA |
*For above capacitors without a listed lead spacing, it doesn't matter because these capacitors aren't flush against the board.
The only electrolytic I didn't replace was the bipolar capacitor C420 as it wasn't really necessary in my case. In addition to the capacitors, I also replaced the power regulator (L78S15CV) as the voltage output was showing around 17v instead of 16v.
After replacing all the capacitors, my vertical drive still didn't work.
At first I suspected the the TDA1170N chip as the output voltages were off when compared to the service manual.
After replacing it, however, there was no change and still no vertical drive.
Then I finally noticed that 2 of the 3 potentiometers that stick out the back of the monitor are completely open. There was no reviving these pots. I took them apart, and it seems that the material on the plates near the connection completely corroded (I'm assuming) leaving no conductivity on any of the points shown in the image below.
Searching online, I couldn't find a pot that looked very similar. So I went to my local electronics store in Akihabara and found a equivalent replacement linear 100k pots.
These high quality replacement pots (JH16K4B104L20KC) cost me only 40 JPY (about $0.30 each) at the store.
The legs didn't exactly match, so I clipped off the legs from the old potentiometers and put them on the new ones to get an exact fit. Once I verified that they reach out the same distance and don't interfere with the case, I replaced all three.
With the pots replaced, I finally got a good picture output.
During this whole time it was taken apart, I washed the case and left it out in the sun for about a week.
Amazing improvement as seen above, but I still went ahead and did two short sessions (two separate days) of retrobright using the cream method.
After putting it back together here is the final result. It came out great, especially when comparing to before picture.
Finally, the badge on the front is quite faded. I'm considering replacing it with one from maceffects in the future.
The Apple II Plus which came with this monitor needs a separate restoration, still working on that.
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