Recent content by Elemenoh

Not that specific site but I’ve been researching substitutes. My plan is to get a more modern part with a B-C-E pinout and just jumper and insulate the emitter.

This Lisa had horizontal video smearing that didn't improve after recap of the video board or power supply. The culprit ended up being Q2, a D40N2 transistor in the contrast circuit. Fortunately I had a parts Lisa I was able to get another from which resolved the problem. Unfortunately, D40N2...

Tantalum caps fail short. If you installed them all backwards and some failed, they'd likely fail short and those caps you installed on the 5V rail would short it to ground. Or the other possibility I mentioned where you might have shorted a cap to an exposed trace somewhere. Good luck patching...

Occam's razor would indicate you probably introduced a short somewhere else when you replaced the caps. I'd carefully start undoing your work until the short is cleared. I'm guessing you have a trace running underneath one of the caps that was exposed and then shorted to ground during your...

Yeah if you pay a shop it’s advantageous to have them do as large of a batch of parts as possible. I did a bunch of SE/30 parts along with a full set of Lisa frame parts. It was also about $100 or so. But for the small MLB part you could do it yourself with a little piece of nickel or zinc you...

If you really want to make it nice, and keep it conductive, you could electroplate it. I had some SE frame parts done in zinc and this example in nickel. I sent them to a local shop, but it's definitely doable DIY too, especially for a smaller part like the MLB frame.

Just because they aren’t leaking doesn’t mean they’re in spec. Do you have access to an ESR meter to test them? What about that cap that looks like a SMD part on the power board. Is that really a tantalum or is it one of those sneaky electrolytics like those used in the newton? Other than...

It could be a lot of things, but it seems like a decent possibility something didn't get put back together correctly or was damaged on take-apart/reassembly. I'm sure you did already but can you confirm the video cable coming from the analog board was plugged into the logic board? Also, you...

Sata to Molex win a nice binhex?

Or maybe the contrast slider wasn't mated properly before. Regardless, that's great you got it working. Congrats!

The beep might be related to that reset button being connected unexpectedly. Did you have the device assembled when that happened? After the beeping stopped did you start hearing the *brrrrrang* startup chime? If so, maybe double check your display cable insertion. Also, did you make sure to...

Do you have a hot air station? I'd do a pass with the desolder gun then soak with hot air to get the stubborn joints to let go. You can then clear those joints more thoroughly with another pass of the gun, wick and/or solder needles. The preheater might help too, but shouldn't be necessary.

I went the AAA holder route for mine. I popped off the top bit to get it to fit. A little snug but it works.

After replacing a torn video ribbon cable, the eMate itself still failed to power on. I found the fuse at F1 was open. Patching it (temporarily) with a 0 Ohm resistor got it to power up without issue. Perhaps someone tried to insert a power adapter with the wrong polarity at some point. From...

Thanks for the link. ECL monochrome sounds about right. I think that might work okay with one of the PageView cards I have. If not those then I suspect this will work with the MicroMac cards I was tinkering with on another project. I'll give it a try and update with findings.