Recent content by larsovef

One hour+ in and no signs of tunnelling or darkening. I’d call that a success! now I need to move on to fixing and repairing the standoffs !

Oh my! I finally did it! What a pain. But on one try I got rid of all the horizontal stripes, and then I realigned the vertical ones. Turns out that if you don’t clamp down well all the tabs you don’t get enough contact between the PCB and the foam on the screen. So I wonder if I got it pretty...

haha, I found that post AFTER I had removed the display! 😭 I guess I'll have to keep trying to get the alignment correct. One question though: Do I have to twist all the metal tabs between every attempt, or can I leave some open?

oh my God, aligning the screen after baking is the true crux of this fix! It’s very difficult to look at the crosshairs and knowing that you are right above it. This is the third time I’m bending the tabs to try to align it and I am worried the the tabs might break from twisting them over and...

Update: No luck in cleaning the bearings. So I’ve desoldered the LED and removed the black housing with the bearing shaft on it. The pattern on the bearing comes off quite easy so I’ll try to source a pair of new bearings and glue the sensor-pattern back on. The heat stakes can be converted to...

I’m not sure how to get the grease inside the bearing. I’ll try to use the super oil and see if it will penetrate. If not then I’ll try and open the bearing up some how. the comment in this video by This Does Not Compute are full of people saying they should be serviceable:

No, not yet. I’ve just opened it up to see what needed to be done. I’ll try and clean a bit more with ipa and then use superlube.

I am in the process of refurbishing one of these. The roller bearings are slow and needs a good cleaning. When I spray some IPA on them they loosen up and feels really good, but as soon as they dry up they’re back to slow and gummy. Anyone here that have had success cleaning and re-greasing the...

Yes, I am trying to patch together information from different forum posts across different forums. There are some good info on this tinkerdifferent thread: https://tinkerdifferent.com/threads/repairing-powerbook-140-standoffs.2622/ And also in the 68kmla thread that is linked to in that thread...

Sorry, I see that the image I uploaded was a webp-file. Here is a link to the mentioned standoff. You’re supposed to sand down the broken standoff and glue it in place. Then take your soldering iron and melt the brass thread in place.

Great video, I watched it yesterday. I am in process of repairing a pretty clean PB180 myself . There are some broken standoffs that needs repair and I was wondering if you (or anyone else) have considered using the 3d-printed replacement standoffs available on thingiverse? I am considering...

I did not get a reading of 30Ω(it went way beyond), but my AB has a diode in the TO220 package: CR21 looks like it’s got some corrosion on its legs: This is the international 630-0108-version btw.

Thank you! Yes, I’ve been looking at the Dead Mac Scrolls, but I have not checked CR20. Will do that!

Hi! Resurrecting this old thread as I have a similar problem with my Plus AB(international). I recapped the whole board some years ago and noticed that the Mac would “collapse” when the floppy drive was connected. The Mac worked fine without the floppy and with a blueSCSI, but adjusting the...

I just fixed mine. Turned out it was a bad solder joint that I had missed when I was checking the PCB. Have you checked the capacitors on yours? the hints I've gotten from others is to look at the _KBRESET signal to see if there might be a dried up/bad capacitor holding that signal down.