Thank you for the link. That leads to the small version standoff. He mentions it is only one in a series of standoffs, but I’m afraid I can’t find any of the other 3D printable standoffs from him that would be required. On the very bottom case alone you have tall and small ones like that.
One mistake I he made on that page is saying that the teeth should be up because I know from firsthand experience the teeth on those brass inserts should be facing down.
He also mentions that you must insert the brass piece with a soldering iron, but he didn’t mention recommended soldering iron temperatures for specific PLA versions used. I suppose you could wing it, but it would be nice to know an exact temperature.
He mentions Loctite as the brand for his recommended epoxy to attach the 3-D printed standoff to the base plastic. He is not alone in recommending that epoxy, but very sadly, I could not buy it here in Japan. And that’s why I went with JB Weld Plastic Bonder. So I really have no idea how the Loctite compares.
It would’ve been nice if he would have posted a photo of one of his standoffs with the epoxy applied. I’m curious how he recommends using the epoxy with his standoffs. If you watch my video, you’ll see that I make lots of cuts and gashes in the base plastic and standoff pieces to ensure that the epoxy sticks strongly to both, and his page makes no mention whatsoever about cuts and gashes in the plastic for a better bond.
With that said, 3-D printable standoffs are not an option for me because I don’t have a 3-D printer and I use JLC3DP for my 3-D printing needs. Tragically, JLC refuse to print tiny models like that. There’s so much I would’ve liked to have printed through the years, but JLC just won’t print small items. So even if I wanted to show those standoffs in another video, I have no means to do so.
