Recent content by muse

The fluid/electrolyte is conductive. So its a good idea to clean it first before replacing the old capacitors with any new ones.

@JDW It looks tempting but I already have 3 original units. Maybe I should just bite the bullet and justify it by saying that the chips in my current units will die someday :)

I can see why cap kits can be very convenient but I am cheap, they are usually a bit more expensive because the hand picking is done for you. So I tend to order enough parts for several jobs so I can claim the free shipping. I did initially order the wrong sized capacitors on the primary side...

I've bought brand new caps that were bad or off spec, its obviousky very rare but it has happened to me at least once when I replacing a few electrolytics in a vertical deflection circuit which resulted in the image being too far down the screen. I'm not buying cap kits though, normally...

Given that he's tried two different analog boards with the same problem. It would be interesting to know if the "noise" was present before the recap was done? It's not clear in the OP. Considering that it gets worse over time as the machine warms up and the noise peaks during HD activity, maybe...

There isn't much I could replace that with right now unless I opt for the 14 inch Philips CM8833 Mk 1, it has a nice tube but I prefer to use that for my Commodore 128D which has digital RGB for crisp 80 column text in addition to the analog video out. I did look at alternatives such as using...

He does really good work. You might just have stability issues at first especially when you add extra cards and peripherals.

I’d agree with that in principle, but I think it really depends on the situation. For example, I can’t justify recapping my Sony BVM purely based on capacitor age. We’re talking about 350–400 capacitors spread across 9 or 10 boards inside, and the cost alone would far exceed the value of that...

Looks can be deceiving. I wish I had taken a photo of the green Nichicon capacitor next to the flyback on the analog board of my SE/30, it looked absolutely pristine on the outside, right up until I de soldered it with it leaking everywhere and fishy smell to go a long with it. I've also had an...

I replaced all caps with low ESR, high quality Nichicon and Matsushita radials, they make them small enough nowadays and you can solder them straight to those pads. The recommended tantalums I looked at didnt consider derating so I never went with the tantalums, they're less effective at...

He's swapped out the analog board as well, with the problem still present, which is wierd.

@JDW OP mentioned that he had geometry issues with the replacement CRT from the SE with the top left corner out of wack on the screen, which is why I suggested adjusting these magnets. Yes, definitely wont fix the noise in the display. But I think he's describing several issues...

First thing. Tweaking geometry on compact Macs is fairly simple compared to other CRTs. Just rotate the magnets to bring the top left corner into position, you will have to break the white glue which secures them into position. Just note that if you make one adjustment then you may need to...

Unfortunately, having trouble seeing the videos. My guess is, since this machine was working before, it’s possible that a trace or solder pad was damaged or cracked in the process of removing capacitors resulting in poor electrical connectivity. When the machine warms up, thermal expansion of...

You'll need to drill a hole with a small drill bit and then expose the copper with a blade either side for the solder to adhere to. @JDW has a great video on it.