Custom USB-C powered 8"display for the Apple IIc with STL files and build plan

wottle

wottle

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Oct 30, 2021
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I took your parts and modified them a bit for resin printing. I twisted the hex pattern in the knob to allow the hex key to fit and bend into the notch. I also added a hex inset in the front bezel to accept a m4 hex nut glued in (instead of melted). I also changed the two screw towers (not sure the official name) that were meant for heat inserts and made them solid cylinders with a 2.7mm hole that I hope will accept a M3 screw direct screwed into the resin. I also enlarged the holes on the back plate to accept the new M3 screws in the bottom (I believe you had M2 screws in the bottom spots). Once they arrive and I confirm they work, properly, I will share the STLs.

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ArjenCNX

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Oct 20, 2025
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wottle said:
I took your parts and modified them a bit for resin printing. I twisted the hex pattern in the knob to allow the hex key to fit and bend into the notch. I also added a hex inset in the front bezel to accept a m4 hex nut glued in (instead of melted). I also changed the two screw towers (not sure the official name) that were meant for heat inserts and made them solid cylinders with a 2.7mm hole that I hope will accept a M3 screw direct screwed into the resin. I also enlarged the holes on the back plate to accept the new M3 screws in the bottom (I believe you had M2 screws in the bottom spots). Once they arrive and I confirm they work, properly, I will share the STLs.

View attachment 24823

View attachment 24824
Click to expand...
Cool mods, for the knob it makes sense to rotate the hex profile, it will make things fit better, for the bezel part, adding the M4 nut is a concern, as the screws on the sides will pull on it all the time, it is quite likely to get loose over time. with inserts this risk is substantially lower. maybe a better solution for a nice stiff hinge can be made, that requires less force on the insert/nut. I'll just throw it in the Hive mind, any ideas are welcome, if you got some, please comment below.
 
wottle

wottle

Active Tinkerer
Oct 30, 2021
827
569
93
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Fort Mill, SC
ArjenCNX said:
Cool mods, for the knob it makes sense to rotate the hex profile, it will make things fit better, for the bezel part, adding the M4 nut is a concern, as the screws on the sides will pull on it all the time, it is quite likely to get loose over time. with inserts this risk is substantially lower. maybe a better solution for a nice stiff hinge can be made, that requires less force on the insert/nut. I'll just throw it in the Hive mind, any ideas are welcome, if you got some, please comment below.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I am hoping a liberal amount of superglue will hold as well as an insert. Alternatively, a longer screw with a nut that could be inserted into a notch in the hinge area so it is pulling against the printed part, as opposed to requiring glue to hold? I am impatient so I sent off the original to be printed, but may order this version as well, because I think long term it will be much less likely to fail.

1764038164717.png


I will probably wait until I have parts for the iPad 10" version to order this one. Once I do, and if it works, I will post the STL files as a "resin optimized" version.
 
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ArjenCNX

Tinkerer
Oct 20, 2025
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wottle said:
Yeah, I am hoping a liberal amount of superglue will hold as well as an insert. Alternatively, a longer screw with a nut that could be inserted into a notch in the hinge area so it is pulling against the printed part, as opposed to requiring glue to hold? I am impatient so I sent off the original to be printed, but may order this version as well, because I think long term it will be much less likely to fail.

View attachment 24922

I will probably wait until I have parts for the iPad 10" version to order this one. Once I do, and if it works, I will post the STL files as a "resin optimized" version.
Click to expand...
how about screw inserts, what they use when the wire-tap is damaged? they look like springs. if you can insert that, it will cover much more depth, and that should be stronger. I'm always concerned with the brittleness of the material, not much unlike the LC575 I'm fixing now.... Biscuit's.
 
wottle

wottle

Active Tinkerer
Oct 30, 2021
827
569
93
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Fort Mill, SC
ArjenCNX said:
how about screw inserts, what they use when the wire-tap is damaged? they look like springs. if you can insert that, it will cover much more depth, and that should be stronger. I'm always concerned with the brittleness of the material, not much unlike the LC575 I'm fixing now.... Biscuit's.
Click to expand...
Are you taking about something like helical inserts? https://a.co/d/7kPyx3O

If the resin material is brittle, would this helical coils not break the tiny threads it creates when it is inserted?

it feels like the pressure needed to keep this display upright shouldn’t be too much and so I feel like maybe the force on this bolt shouldn’t be super high. But we’ll see.
 
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ArjenCNX

Tinkerer
Oct 20, 2025
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Maybe you are right, still, if we want to prevent stresses from building up, gluing is still best, this will need surface area to be stable over time. a melt-in insert is still best here in that case, glued in place with epoxy or maybe even yellow glue (shoe repair glue) as it never fully hardens
 
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