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I was about to give up, it took about 150 builds to allow the use of the lens' full FOV, without the color going wrong. New lens should be arriving Monday. I still feel the image pipeline is still losing resolution somehow, so maybe none of this will work out. The challenge has been fun.

I was able to get this to work: original on the lens, 8mm with extension tube on the right. However as this is cheap, non-macro glass, the focused image was soft/mushy and not an improvement (I will only show improving steps.) I have the correct macro lens arriving sometime on Monday...

While it did manage to get the capture more centered, still haven't found what will impact the Bayer phase to restore the color. Any change to the size is causing this error. Seems I can't get away with cheap M12 lenses and the minimal focal distance is wrong. I've found a couple of excellent...

Today's progress report. I'm now encoding the wider image (clip below). The largest area I can scan is 1920x1440 (rather than 820x500), yet the video is still offset. This suggests that the video 1920x1440 is windowed from the sensor's 3280x2464. GoPro HERO HD (same era, similar tech) used to...

I got the LCD stable

Small break through. I have determine one location when the active sensor region initialized and add some new code for a wider FOV, and therefore more active pixels from the sensor (ready for a lens swap.) LCD is freaking out, this is one of the better frames. I found before the above hack...

As the lenses are only $10-15ea I have purchased range to test, all seem to suffer the same issue. The current lens mount is too short, the lens needs to be closer to the film to achieve focus. I have some M12 mount extensions on the way, as I would prefer not to have to move the camera.

Hacking investigations continue. I hope the updates are enjoyed, as using this to document my steps. I got the serial port and shell up and running, and there are a lot of really useful commands. The hacking docs @Mac84 provided is spot on. I want to determine how much of the sensor was being...

Set the white balance is very easy, so you could make your firmware less yellow a few hexediting steps. If you reduce the red or increased the blue, it will be less yellow. I want to look at exposure flicker as well. I'm working to setup the serial port as that should greatly speed up...

My current theory, my RS232<->USB not be 3.3V compatible.

@Mac84 I've tried to setup the serial port, but not quite there Boot up looks like, this after a few seconds This once unit is up running the terminal is filed with: I used a USB to serial via Putty set to 115200 baud . Any ideas? It seems I have GND, TX, and RX all connected correctly...

@Andreas I decided to try a Type-B to confirm it can be done with a hexeditor, without using decompiling tools like Ghidra (which what I used to find the white balance code.) Type B users: let me know if this attachment works. It is 1600x1200 with a ~25Mb/s and a fixed (non-auto) white balance.

Making the firmware changes to Type B (or A) should be straight forward with any hex editor (I use HxD.) Now that I've found the white balance, all you need to is download my Type C, find another Type C (without my hacks), and binary diff them. The same changes will apply. You will first have...

@fishgee Thank you. I have lens out now, and it appears to be an 8mm lens. This is not great news, the lens is wider than I had expected. The active Super-8 frame will use 5.46x4.01mm out of an effective FOV of around 13.4x10mm. This about 40.7% on the active capture area. As I believe the...

I have a new concern and maybe more extreme hack potential. We increase the bit-rate to get a more natural grain, rather than compression artifacts, yet the resolution (even 1920x1440) seems insufficient to resolve the grain. While it likely resolving something close to the film's potential...

I use Premiere Pro, which is a bit pricy. DaVinci Resolve is free and can easily do it.

I was only "calibrating" to a one reel, so it might be too warm on other reels. So ultimately a white balance control is want I hope for. But as the white balance is not changing, it is easier to fix in post for each shot or reel, rather than for each frame with auto WB.

I use -0.5 exposure, -1.5 sharpness and 0.0 tint. I'm now working to add some QP changes and bump the resolution back up. So there might newer FW for tomorrow.

@Hawke Let me know if you try it and whether you like the results.

I have continued to tweak the manual white balance. Here I have included a second sequence that was too blue with the last version. Now is only slightly blue, while the garden sequence still looks good. The RGB gains are 2.0, 1.0, and 0.75. While this came from the same 1966 reel, the white...