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I've never used BlueSCSI, only SCSI2SD, but I believe the card should be formatted FAT32. ExFAT might work, but I'd check with others that have used the BlueSCSI to see if that works. And usually, I just order caps I need off digikey or mouser, but cap kits are the best way to go, especially...

capacitors. If you have not had the analog and logic boards recapped, get them recapped as soon as you can

check the voltages from the floppy port. I don't have the image that shows which pins to probe, but I'm sure someone will chip in the does

If you really want silence, go for Noctua

the beige, and to be fair, I conducted the test in the middle of the summer

believe it or not, and I tested this on my own hardware, just leaving the yellowed plastic outside in the sun can de-yellow it. Yes, it's slower than using peroxide, but I've seen the results with my own eyes, and taken photos

ok yeah it being so dim is an issue. You can probably look on digikey or mouser for a new part

That's the normal color. An LED's color doesn't change over time, only if the temperature is changed does it shift, and even then ever so slightly

I kind of put it off, because I had a set on Amazon saved for later, but the listing kind of disappeared off the face of the earth before I could buy it

My LC III ++ happens to have that Farallon ethernet card that doesn't have the FPU socket, and it has an FPU installed in the socket on the logic board (33MHz part because I overclocked my LC III to 33MHz from the stock 25MHz)

be careful doing this, as you may damage the FPU or socket, but try extracting it with a flathead screwdriver, pry on each side where the PLCC extractor would go and pop it out

That's for the PiSCSI. The BlueSCSI and the PiSCSI are not the same. the PiSCSI uses a Raspberry Pi computer, the BlueSCSI uses the BluePill and Raspberry Pi Pico, which are, say it with me, microcontrollers

that's good, internal drive should always be drive 0, Macs always default to booting from drive 0

I say check the voltages when it's doing that moaning like sound

has the LC III been recapped?

either the logic board's shorted (somewhat unlikely) or the analog board is unable to provide enough current

Try here

The FatMac Switcher would be your best bet, I wonder if that would work with 512ke/Plus ROMs?

I love the naming scheme! I used the same naming scheme when I upgraded my LC III ++ to its limits, including overclocking the CPU and maxing out its ram! I also plan to eventually add the "Evil RAS mod" to it, and swapping the 4MB RAM chips on the board to 8MB for a total of 72MB of RAM in my...

they usually happen around the main video connector, you'll see a ring around the joint which indicates it's cracked