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My first thought is that this is an issue related to the reset button, or something on that circuit - that's what that screen looks like to me. Have you tested the board outside of the case (just hanging out the back)?

I use an Xacto knife and slowly work it around the seam of the case. It doesn't take long, but don't rush it. Once you get in there, make sure to salvage the temp sensors for reuse. If you have access to a spot welder, the job is easy. I don't, so I used tabbing wire and solder, and it works...

A while ago, I whipped up a cheap solution to get the IIGS's RGB to output and upscale to VGA using the GBS 8200, following @jcm-1 's tutorial: It was SO much better than the crap composite output, but not great. Then recently, I saw on FB that there is a modification you can make to the GBS...

Nice! Congrats. :D You can definitely repack the battery - I've done a few. 10x 1.2v NiMH flat-top AA's -- two groups of 5 in series, joined in parallel. The higher the mAh the better of course - just make sure they're all the same.

It's physical damage to the liquid crystal layer inside the panel itself, so not something you can repair, sadly. As long as the screen isn't touched further, the symptom shouldn't get worse. Unfortunately, the only 'solution' to this issue is to replace the screen - not great, I know...

Here we go: https://www.facebook.com/groups/5251478676/permalink/10161245550903677/ Not sure of the current status - perhaps @jcm-1 can fill us in?

They are pretty not great. While I'm loath to alter an original, functioning machine, I do have one //c with some bad lock switches that I'd be open to replacing the keyboard on... The trick - maybe, I dunno - is finding switches that will be low profile enough to match the original aesthetic...

Welcome @jamiros - and hello also from Canada!

Apple made three different 800k externals - the Apple 3.5", the Macintosh 800k, and the UniDisk. Then there's the 1.44M FDHD / SuperDrive. And of course there's also the 400k drive. There's also the PB100 and 2400c externals, but I don't suppose these are a concern in this question. But I think...

A little late to the party... did you resolve the issue? My first thought was whether or not the board was cleaned after recapping.

Me either. Cool!

These are my favorite breweries in the Northern Ontario region of Canada: Dawson Trail (Thunder Bay) Lake of the Woods Brewery (Kenora) Sleeping Giant (Thunder Bay) My Basement (lol) No vinyards up here, not exactly a friendly temperate zone. And honestly I'm not a fan of most Canadian vinyards...

My top three local roasters, ranked: 1. St. Paul: https://stpaulroastery.ca/ 2. Wolfhead: https://www.wolfheadcoffee.com/ 3. Rose N Crantz: https://www.rnccoffee.ca/ St. Paul Chiapas is a treasure. I like to support local as much as possible, but it's about double the cost than Kicking Horse...

100%. We're lucky to have a few excellent local roasters here whose beans are sold in area grocery stores.

Here in Canada, a good roaster that is (I'm pretty sure) available country-wide is Kicking Horse, and I prefer their darker roasts like Cliffhanger, Grizzly Claw, and 454 Horse Power. Those are my go-to's. Fresh-ground every morning in the conical, french pressed. Does the job.

Spent the afternoon refurbing and testing Disk ][ drives... so easy to work on! Two not quite happy, new caps and IC's on the way. With these and a funky //c drive and a troubled Lobo Disk ][ clone, I'm drowning in 5.25" drives needing repair! *happy sounds*

On topic: I desolder through-holes at 350-360, with added flux and fresh solder, and usually pre-heat the area with hot air at ~150. I'm considering buying an old toaster / counter-top oven for pre-heating to get at those ground planes (don't really have a need for a proper pre-heater, just a...

I've heard this before, nice to see a measure of confirmation. Thanks for sharing that doc! As an aside - I wonder why the Apple 12" RGB Monitor isn't in that spec sheet?