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Before you do anything else, I'd say just clean all the IC pins with alcohol, using a soft toothbrush. You can do that fairly quickly and at no cost.

That's where it is, yes. I have found that it leads to J23 jumper lead on the upper side, and measured between there and the metal cage, while the computer was running:

If the capacitors or the battery on the logic board have leaked, make sure to check if any traces need repairing. Make sure to also thoroughly clean all IC pins from any capacitor residue using 100% isopropyl alcohol as it can mess up with their operation. You should also most likely just...

I've ordered these, so I'll see how it goes. They were just $5, so I don't mind even if they end up not working: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/1005006899813268.html I felt a bit bad because speakers on my G3 sounded OK until some game that doesn't obey the system volume setting blasted music...

I found out where TP1 is and what it's connected to, so I can measure it from the top of the board. I'm assuming I would measure between TP1 and say metal shielding that's connected to the ground? Would I be looking for 68.4V DC or AC here? I want to check this because even though the computer...

Looks like these speakers are no longer available on Aliexpress. @mac27 do you have any other suggestion of what to buy? Someone on reddit recommended these as a similarly cheaper replacement, but these don't have the silver port in the middle, so they don't look stock...

Right now, I've adjusted the PP7 pot, and managed to get the low voltage to be 4.998 / 5.004 V and 11.8. Up from 4.8V / 11.5V - I can confirm with certainty now that PP7 affects both the 5V and 12V. Not sure if it affects anything else, but those two it affects for sure. - Turning PP7 clockwise...

The things is, it's really haphazard. Today again I've been able to use it for an entire hour, and it still keeps working just fine. Yesterday it wouldn't run for longer than 5 minutes at a time. I keep suspecting that flyback on this board is dying - it's flat surface looks pretty cracked from...

I just can't catch a break with this. After working perfectly for whole three days - and I used it a few hours each day - today the computer starting shutting down all on its own again, same way as it did before I thought I fixed it by cleaning the CRT connector. It seems it works fine for about...

For a sanity check, today I've put back my preferred Panasonic capacitors back on the board. Then I've thoroughly cleaned the pins on the board where the CRT molex connector goes. Each of the four pins had some darkening on it - some residue or a burnt metal surface due to arcing? Not sure what...

More things happened today. First, I've replaced the 2nd optoisolator, but as I suspected, the voltages remained the same, and in general nothing changed. Then, I replaced the two 5600uF caps and one 3300uF cap with my preferred Panasonic ones. Again, no changes in voltages, but since the CC was...

I'm aware of this, but the 5600uF / 10V Panasonic capacitors I have are also new. They just happen to be similar in shape to the ones that were originally on the board. The capacitors from the Console5 kit are thinner but longer, so maybe their overall volume is similar. I'll see what happens...

Good news! After replacing the corroded optoisolator, the board is working again :) I'm back in the VGA club! Now, the voltages I measure are 4.8V and 11.5V. Better than before, but still not quite right. Tomorrow I will replace the other optoisolator, although that other one sits next to the...

On my other CC, with the mystic board I was getting issues when the voltage dropped to around 4.6V, I think. However, the issue looked completely different - the computer would still power on, but I was getting a death chime. This one won't even power on with the mystic board in place.

I've been reading a bit how optoisolator works, and it does seem that a decaying dLED inside of it could cause a voltage regulation issues, and specifically lower voltage issue. Not much point posting a photo of it now as I"ve mostly scraped the green corrosion from the IC's legs, but some of...

I've made a potentially significant discovery on the nature of the problem. Once I removed the LC575 board, and placed the original CC logic board, the computer boots fine. It of course cannot display the VGA resolution correctly, so the image is distorted in terms of width and barrel...

Thank you, I will look through that thread carefully. I was thinking of replacing the optocoupler and those diodes, even though nothing looks obviously burned. I’m worried it’s the flyback though. I can hear a brief buzz from it while the LED is on, and it all shuts off a moment later. Maybe...

I spotted a "for repair" CC analog board on Ebay a few weeks ago. Seller said that the board was VGA modded and worked fine for a while. Seller then attempted to undo the VGA mod, but something got messed up in the process, and it stopped working. I got this board thinking I could try to repair...

Would it be possible to use a thermal tape with the large copper heatsink? I'm not so much interested in maximum performance, but would rather keep the machine as silent as possible (I've already installed a Noctua fan as per your other video's instructions!) I'd also try to install it in as...

Thanks for all that info! I wonder if my first order of business here should be to get a heatsink, because I've noticed that I can only achieve a stable overclock to 45MHz while the CPU is not too hot. Once it gets hotter, the computer freezes at 45, and I can only stably do 40MHz.