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Worked fine on some stuffit files. Did not work on system extensions and MacFilm files (the second of which is probably expected, it’s a small piece of software)

Posting here now from my PowerBook G4 DLSD. Pretty slow but it's still doable to use the forums on it. The reason I'm here is that I'm bridging the beta over to a classic Mac OS system using it which I'll then test it out on. Let's see if it will recover the "forked" (haha) copies of FrameMaker...

That's great and all until you touch one of the LC III socketed DIP chips you reseated incorrectly and give yourself a nasty peeling burn! Don't ask me how I know.

Sounds like an alignment issue there with your repair. Yes, send photos when you can.

It should sit correctly under normal circumstances. Sounds like the alignment is off on your plastic fixes.

You have a later revision power supply without ELNA caps, the ones that fail most frequently. Still, seems they were bad based on the bad voltages. Start the system with the hard drive disconnected now that you have power and then see if you get a question mark. Bad SCSI drives can hold up the...

There will be leakage under the caps most likely, it's probably just fresh enough not to have corroded anything yet. If it's in that good of shape, then yes, it will likely be good again after a recap. Post photos of both sides of the PSU board too, that will be helpful.

Try whatever you’ve got. With what you’ve said now though, you’re not gonna get a chime. Your PSU is bad. It shouldn’t ever drop from 7.5V or thereabouts.

You can recap it, yes. Thing is that they're a royal pain to crack open, the ELNA caps' leakage inside is a huge pain to clean up, and when you're done there's a well under 100% chance it will work right. I've had a stone-dead OEM supply for almost 2 years now that I still haven't gotten around...

Yeah, that PSU is bad, and likely your problem. Go get yourself a modern supply off Amazon and I'll bet that the 170 fires right up.

Also try plugging in headphones and seeing if you’re getting chime out of them. If you are, it’s likely a bad interconnect board. I’ll ask again though - you said you’re “pretty sure” the PSU is good - do you have another system to test with? If not, absolutely test it with a multimeter. The...

PowerBook 140 and 170 motherboard are the same. Interconnect board is the one with the gray ribbon cable, speaker, and battery attached. Again though, have you verified that your PSU works? That is the number one issue that keeps these from starting, those PSUs always have bad capacitors.

If PSU is known-good, next suspect for me would be the interconnect board cable. They’re notorious for going bad and producing this sort of inconsistent behavior and issues.

Is the power supply known good or is it the original? The originals always go bad due to failed capacitors, you need to be testing on a modern or recapped supply.

Definitely going to use this...BUT! What if fix-a-fork itself loses its resource fork in the transfer ;)

I unfortunately don't think there is an 8600 schematic around, although there have been some new ones surfacing recently, so who knows.

It could also be a short elsewhere that's causing those caps to appear shorted. Also, you should test the tantalums here. It's very rare, but they can short out.

I've personally found that anything other than epoxy or JB Weld does not hold if put under stress. I use a product called Plastruct Plastic Weld on my systems, and it works fine in places that aren't under stress. If a mount for the LCD, or a part inside breaks, I'll use it. I've found it...

Plastics epoxy is better suited. Regular superglue will do a bad job. Reinforced superglue (like the video above) would probably work a little better, but I'd just use plastics epoxy or JB weld. If it's powerbook standoffs though, I'd STRONGLY recommend you just 3D print new ones.

For the question of disassembly - the 100 series PowerBooks are very easy to take apart if you know how to do it right. The biggest worries are the display hinge standoffs failing when you unscrew them, in which case getting the display apart can suddenly get tough. Besides that though, I really...