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Apple used multiple different LCD manufacturers, and to my knowledge none of the cables are cross-compatible. If you do find one that is of a different brand than the one inside it now, you'll need to make sure it comes with the cable as well.

That's what I'd assume then, swapped in from a 366 graphite.

The first keyboard was definitely swapped from a 1st gen iBook, the 2nd gens (like the second image) are much less transparent. I can’t tell exactly which one, it looks too dark to be from a blueberry but that could be just the lighting. Might be a graphite one though.

I don’t have a lime iBook, but I can confirm the only ones with matching accent colors were the blueberry and tangerine colors. The others had gray, although I suppose that means the graphite ones matched. If yours have light blue accents than chances are it’s been swapped. Pics?

You can add Compaq and Texas Instruments laptops to the list. Found that compaq laptops used them myself and a guy on another forum said TI used them too. That just about covers every major brand…

With things like this, you could always have a hardware failure as well. Clamshells are old. The onboard RAM on my Blueberry isn't recognized. Some issue could just be preventing the board from seeing all the RAM. Do you have another system to try the RAM in?

My PowerBook 145 had the same issues you were describing with my RaSCSI - at the time it has no devices connected to the internal SCSI bus, just the external RaSCSI. Flipping the termination power jumper off fixed it.

some sort of termination issue - try with the termination power jumper on/off. at least on the RaSCSI, not sure for the BlueSCSI. Seems like a different issue.

Anyone who has dealt with enough vintage macs knows of the horrors a battery leak can cause. Unfortunately, a whole new generation of vintage tech is now being affected in mass by this - laptops from the mid 90s-early 2000s. The TLDR is that many laptops from many brands at the time used...

I’ve never tried it myself, but I’ve heard many stories of it working to temporarily fix dead drives.

as an emergency fix, you could try sticking it in the freezer overnight. It won't harm the electronics, but it may help freeze up the sticky rubber that's getting the head stuck. That and a light hit to the top of the drive may get it working temporarily again to get the files off.

That doesn't really surprise me, unlike the other brands used, the early VARTAs like the one you had seem to be pretty bulletproof and many still hold charge to this day. I still have heard of them leaking though, so getting it gone was a good idea. Still, much less leak-prone than the Maxells.

I put a thread out on this last year on 68kMLA before it got taken out by the crash, today I became reminded of it and thought to restart it. I'm putting it in both places this time as well, so folks over here can respond as well! So, what's your oldest battery that still holds charge? (enough...

Well yes, but they use the same screen so the signals are compatible. If there’s a better screen for the TAM, it should also work in the 3400.

P/N of the screen in my 3400 was the Sharp LQ12S11. @Action Retro said in his TAM video that his screen was a Samsung IIRC, so there may be more than one vendor.

If someone figures that out I’d love to get an XGA screen running in my 3400 😃

I honestly don’t subscribe to the whole “YouTubers are only in it for themselves” idea that I see talked about a lot here. To be clear, many are, but I haven’t seen anything to suggest that in this community. The youtubers associated with this site are all pretty small all things considered, and...

Never knew that, that's awesome! I haven't used SheepShaver in a looooong time, but self-contained VMs and direct mounting of my RaSCSI HDAs seems like a pretty useful set of features!

That will do it! Glad it's working now.

Don't underestimate the value of a very thorough cleaning. It can solve a lot of problems. Already cleaned it? Do it again! Both sides of the board. Check for bad traces/shorts anywhere. Could be one leg on a chip that isn't making good contact that's causing the display not to refresh as it should.