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Love those old drives, they are so musical. I suggest to tear down the mechanics and to clean it thoroughly. I remember one drive with a completely “glued” mechanism.

In the picture: Eizo FlexScan S1910. Supports sync on green,

I would definitely keep it as is!

Foam, cheap stuff you buy at any department store. Manually punched a hole. It did work, but the outer diameter, even after fitting and stretching, was a tad too big. So, one per each roller wouldn’t fit. That’s why I used the rubber grommet for the second roller. And two rubber rollers didn’t...

Grüezi! I fixed a couple of black ribbons the way you see in the pics. Not easy to find the right fit and to keep things clean. Give it a try if you don‘t have any alternative option.

Couldn’t find a better thread, so I drop it here. I just took out of the closet one of my beloved G4 Cubes. Many years since last time I powered it up. Luckily, this one still works fine (in another one I have, a capacitor blew in the PWM board and that was it…). As I have an original box of...

Here’s another way: thermal sleeve sheath for ensuring proper grip of the rollers.

I would say it’s probably a misaligned floppy, can’t read valid data. In the resources directory, you can find a manual on how to fix this issue.

Here’s one for sale. With the horribly weak Japanese Yen, it may turn into a real bargain when purchased in US Dollars.

I confirm, ’sync on green’ is the issue.

Eventually, I gave up on this one: too bulky and requiring too many additions. Btw, it went for less than 30 USD.

Solved: it’s a 9000 750 https://www.openpa.net/systems/hp-9000_720_730_750.html Interesting beast, but it takes a lot of extra commitment…

Hello, there‘s this HP monster up for sale (“as is”), I couldn’t find much info by googling around. Curious to see that there’s no serial number (washed out by time? Proto?). I’m afraid it may require huge extra investment for having it up and running again, I doubt it takes a plain VGA...

I am doing right now the same job on the top lid of my HP 712. Unfortunately, the plastic got brittle and fragile and there’s a crack at one corner of the floppy slit. I am using epoxy, but alone it won’t suffice, so I am skinning the case from the inside with a thin steel sheet.

On the Toshiba MX5701B CD ROM drive unit. Eventually, I found out that the drive is actually in perfectly working condition. Reasons for apparent mulfunctioning (tray (b)locked and yellow light steady on): 1) there’s switch in the back that is purposely designed for disabiling the front panel...

Yes, of course. A scorching sun. Took a few days. The lettering on the keys got slightly washed out, too, so I guess I should have paid more attention. Anyhow, I am not a fan of retrobrighting, so I consider it a one off trial. As I wrote, surprisingly enough, plain exposure to direct sunlight...

I recently tried hydrogen peroxide mixed approx 1:5 with demineralized water for whitening some super yellowed keyboard and MO drive case. It works, but getting uniform treatment for complex shapes requires continuous attention for avoiding over / under exposure of some areas. I don’t think I...

I recently swapped a SWIM on my SE/30 board. Donor was a busted LC. Used hot air for pulling from the donor as I didn’t want to damage the chip, but I clipped the damaged one, as I didn’t want to lift any pad on the destination board. I then carefully soldered it using a lot of flux and a fine...

I used to refer to these instructions https://www.jagshouse.com/classicrepair.html

@Melkhior I also believe local offer might have seen more acceptance than foreign hardware. Even though US commercial interests have always been very strong, for sure Japan did not lack local high end manufactures. Talking about Sun, I know for sure that some Sparcstation models were sold by...