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I prefer using hot glue. It dries quick and is easily reversible. Yes, the measurements were taken off the stock metal bracket and hence the LED is in the same position as the stock bracket, which is slightly offset. All the compact Macs I have owned had that slight offset so I was never sure...

Oh interesting... The holes on both the walls of the walled model and the plate of the wall-less model are lined up the same, and both of them match the spacing on the stock metal HD bracket from the compact Macs (as you also saw). And they also lined up with the holes in the stock metal HD...

That's pretty neat. I can't wait for things to settle and the tariff situation to get better understood in the US as it's preventing me from utilizing these manufacturers overseas to try things. I have a few PCBs just waiting on the back burner in hopes that things settle down. Otherwise, only...

I will defer to some of the other folks in this thread as they seem to know their materials well. I have printed brackets in PLA and they have held up fine, even with spinning disks. If you keep handling them (working on your machine a lot), yeah you might want something a little more durable...

The test print of the walled bracket was a success. I test fitted it with a spinning disk and the holes lined up properly. I also test fit it onto a standard metal floppy drive case and that also fit well. And then lastly I test fitted it inside a Macintosh SE case and that also worked fine...

FWIW, on one of my SE/30s, I had a similar issue where internal only worked when an external device was plugged in. After much debugging, it came down to an overly sensitive req line (due to the scsi controller) and I had to add a resistor to mimic what an active scsi terminator (like the iifx...

The wall less one printed fine flat on the build plate (upside down). It printed without supports but the rear mounting holes were slightly deformed because of it. Should be fine with supports. The walled one is on my printer right now and about half way through. I printed it pointing up with...

I positioned the 4 holes to match the layout of the bottom holes of a standard spinning disk, which is what I believe most of the manufacturers are using for the 3D printed brackets for the SCSI emulators. But if you have a spinning disk lying around, try lining up that MacSD bracket with the...

The wall-less one prints fine with filament 3D printing and the test fit onto a floppy cage was good.

Here's one that more resembles the stock bracket. There was room to increase the wall thickness and so I did that to ensure it's stronger. Note this one will be much harder to print.

Like this would be the wall-less version. The LED post is removable to make it easier to print, and it takes a standard 5mm LED. But doesn't look anything like the stock bracket. Even though the plate is thick, it should be fine for any of the SD card emulators. Spinning disk should work also...

@JDW can your MacSD mount from the bottom or does it have to mount from the sides? I'm asking because the walls on the stock drive bracket are 1mm thick and my guess is they will be very brittle if 3D printed (filament or resin). I can make the walls thicker as it looks like there's certainly...

Ok, I will bite. I will try to draft something up this weekend. You basically want stock mount points for a 3.5” drive, stock location for an LED, mounts to a stock metal floppy drive enclosure, but without the long tail that covers the main board cable, correct? I have a bracket that mates to...

LOL

That is correct! :) The case is a stock case that was beat up and badly yellowed. I fixed the cracks and then painted it matte white. The little bevel on the floppy drive slot is due to me replacing the floppy drive with a magneto optical drive. The MO disks fit through the normal slot but...

This is one thing I have not modeled. I always took the lazy route. I use ZuluSCSIs and got them with a 3D printed 3.5“ bracket. I then velcro these brackets onto the top of the metal floppy enclosure. Makes it easy to remove them without screwing/unscrewing a metal HD bracket. Avoids the hassle...

The following post was what I have been using to do this for my Mac II, IIci, Quadra 700, and now Quadra 950. The article is about the IIci but it’s the same approach on the 950 to invert the signal for the ATX. https://bylenga.ddns.net/hardwareprojects.php?page=Centris_ATX.php

My guess is those were what remained of the fuses at F1, F2, and F3.

I just replaced my dead 950 psu with a Corsair HX1200 PSU (puts out enough amps on the 5V rail .. 30A). Fit into the stock psu casing.. just need to put together a wiring harness for the logic board side, do the usual inverter via transistor trick for ps on, wire up new 4 pin molex connectors...

I have successfully done it on a PowerBook 540c and a PowerBook Duo 280c. @croissantking is the first I saw do it successfully (the above link is to his thread) on his 540c which is what inspired me. Never tried on a 190.