Sorry, just realised I did a thing I do. I answered your question and didn't think about the context.
It is very unlikely to be the CPU. It almost absolutely never is.
I would still be checking traces and even perhaps check the ROM contents are valid.
OK, that means the CPU isn't running code from the ROM, that is a big clue.
Rifa shouldn't have done any harm to the logic board. They generally either cause no actual visible functional change or blow the fuse in the power plug.
No problem, I wasn't attacking I'm just... I tend to clarify rather than leave stuff, a bad habit from a character flaw and critically precise working environment where misunderstandings cause major problems. No offense meant.
I was sharing thoughts because it is something I've considered doing...
It will only switch once, so a meter would be fine for checking it if you can get a safe connection. There will be a test point I'd suspect. I'll see if I can find what it is for you... (I'll edit it in if I find it, if I don't, assume I couldn't or got distracted by a passing bee).
I broke out the thermal camera and it looks like the head driver IC is getting warmer than I would expect. Not super hot... but it heats up instantly and it doesn't in older models I have (although it is a different part). My next step would be to try swapping it out, but I don't have another...
Nah, you don't need the mounting point. Without the huge adapter you'll be putting less strain on the connector than the stock design which was mostly ok with just the solder mountings. Keep it small, keep it cheap.
Ok, but just to warn you, that isn't what logic means in electronics, or IC...
Ah, no, you don't need anything other than some traces and a single diode to adapt from PowerMac video to VGA. The adapters with switches are only needed for older macs, and even they just have like, two diodes in them, unless you're messing with sync and auto detection. Here is the required...
That's good, if the opening is flush with the board then it is even easier.
I don't quite know what chips you're talking about though, isn't it just the HDI-45 connector going on between the board edge and the connector pins?
No need to drill holes in the case. An L-shaped bracket with two right angle triangles would provide plenty of support. You could make the whole thing out of PCB. As mentioned, there are four ground tabs already there for mechanical support (they're already used as such by the existing...
It would be easier to desolder the connector from the logic board and replaced it with an L-shaped bracket that presented a standard apple or VGA port on the back. Way easier to pick up the contacts on the logic board than at the connector end.
Page 282 onwards here might help : https://vintageapple.org/inside_o/pdf/Guide_to_Macintosh_Family_Hardware_2nd_Edition_1990.pdf#page=282
I suspect address lines A0 and A1 aren't connected because the ROM is 32bit and the addresses are in bytes? Or am I being daft? So basically, you don't need...
I wrote a little program that extracts styled text resources from a file (in this case application) converts mac encoded characters, changes formatting to html and spits out a file for each resource. I used this to export the 300+ pages of the in application manual for Control Lab and LOGO...
Folks, have you had a look in the "Guide to Macintosh Hardware 2nd Edition" book? Its available online as a pdf. Specifically, there is an interesting bit from page 269 (pdf page 308 - linked here). This section gives some clues for some things to check for.
This is a block diagram...
If you can find a Sonnet Tempo Serial ATA, that would work great - but they're expensive.
Or something like a Firmtek / Seritek 1S2... but they rarely turn up. Until recently you could actually still get them new.
They're basically the same card and both will boot Classic Mac OS from...
https://elephantandchicken.co.uk/stuffandnonsense/?p=2916
Documented some serial cable info if anyone is ever trying to get one running.
Had fun today - I got a couple of angle sensors (I felt they were the only sensors that would be a bit too much effort to make my own). They work sort of...
Does anyone in the UK have one of these with the click of death that I could nab the controller board from if I can't fix this one? I haven't been back to it yet because of distractions, but given it doesn't have the most common failure mode, it might be the easiest way to save it.