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I think it's fair to conclude that they loaded the wrong reel on the pick-and-place for that part -- so unless they used up a partial reel and swapped them mid-run, I'm pretty sure all the boards are affected. I'm just glad it was a simple, easy-to-replace, inexpensive one. (Could you imagine if...

As Bolle mentioned, check the diodes on the bottom side -- I sent an email to everyone in the group buy a couple weeks ago about the wrong ones being populated, and mailed out the correct replacements early last week.

There's also the SE/30 schematic redraw project, which includes two pages at the end that are *very* helpful for diagnosing connection issues: https://github.com/mishimasensei/macse30mlb/tree/master/hardware/pcb/mlb/output

That Duo Dock setup has had pretty much *everything* done to it. And it includes the monitor, keyboard, etc!

Are the caps at C2, C10, C31 etc. the same? If so C50 is likely one of those as well. The best photo I could find of the card is here, and though the markings aren't legible, they overall look the same.

Something simple to try first: Put in a new PRAM battery.

Having the bottom side populated is, IMHO, the bare minimum -- the parts cost is negligible and if you do a sufficiently large production run then the setup costs are pretty low. The SE/30 Reloaded batch I had made also included some of the top-side SMD parts, and each board ended up costing $73...

Was that just for plain PCBs or populated ones? My 50 SE/30 Reloaded board group buy batch came to about $3200, and that included the bottom and most of the top SMD parts populated.

I'm probably going to have to recap the screen on one of my 1xx series PowerBooks. It has those weird sideways electrolytic caps with rectangular enclosures, with both leads coming out one end. There aren't any modern elecrolytics that are close enough in size or value (3.3uF, 35V), but ceramic...

You might have done so already, but try reaching out to Mouser. They may still be able to get a few -- apparently the part is being discontinued, but there may be some left in the supply chain. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NXP-Semiconductors/MC88916DW80?qs=WhRErS6oET%252BCZr2YQaNLxw%3D%3D

I'm not aware of any distributors in France that stock the part, but if you're willing to import one, here's a direct replacement: https://www.peconnectors.com/sockets-pga-cpu-and-memory/hws1788/

I presume you mean to probe the legs of the PLCCs themselves while in their sockets? This is an interesting thought -- the chips seem to snap into the sockets pretty firmly, but I suppose it's quite possible a few legs aren't making a good connection. I just ordered some pin probes for my...

I've made significant progress in building my SE/30 Reloaded board. Unfortunately, all I'm getting out of it is a Simasimac. There's no chime at all from the speaker/headphone jack, except for a quick pop when I power the machine on. Here's what I've done so far: --Tried multiple known-good ROM...

Sure would be interesting if a copy of the disc ended up on the Internet Archive...

Did you buy the BlueSCSI as a kit, or preassembled? Are the terminating resistor packs installed? (Take a photo of the BlueSCSI and upload it here if you're not sure what those are, or if they're installed correctly.)

Yeah, I think the approach at this point is going to be throwing the daughterboard in the ultrasonic cleaner. I *might* be able to get the DC side of the main board in there too if I'm lucky. The PSU came to me with the through-hole caps already replaced, and I suspect there wasn't much cleaning...

I was handed a pair of IIsi power supplies to try to fix. One of them was easy to get working again, but the second is being stubborn. It's been fully recapped (including the SMD caps on the daughterboard), and it's producing the 5V standby rail. A known-good IIsi won't power on with it...

Short sleeve is my preference -- basically, just take the designs for the sweatshirts and offer them on black/dark grey short-sleeve T-shirts.

I'm hoping that T-shirts are also planned to be offered at some point?

I don't have a Classic II board handy, but looking at some photos it appears that the positive pad for C6 hits a nearby via and likely connects to a SMD resistor on the bottom of the board.