Looks like I need to do a small protection PCB revision. My solution for connecting to the selected power supply is to sit down over the output pins and solder in place. That connector footprint was off by a tiny bit and scrapes the side of the mounting bracket. Moved that, rotated a few...
I've had very good luck with the "Aneng" brand multimeters. Models 8008 and 9002.
The 8008 was even reviewed by the EEVBlog, decent little meter.
Note that I don't think they're trustworthy for high voltages due to lack of protection that you see in nicer meters. But for low voltage...
Did a test on the latest design (using my LC II), and everything seems to be working. At this point the mounting bracket is probably the final target for some tweaks before this is ready to go.
Yes, the connector is through-hole on the backlit portable display cable. So it could be semi-easy to do with desoldering braid.
Next step for me on this project is to measure the original connector and try to find something that matches the pin pitch. If I can find one of those, then...
On the subject of recreation display cables, I just pushed the flex cable design for the backlit screen upgrade into my PCB Designs repo on GitHub. Note that you need connectors and the ROM slot card for this to work.
This is *not* the 5126 backlit cable, this is the upgrade for the 5120.
Will definitely post a picture here once I have one fully assembled and tested.
There's not a lot of accidental contact surface on the top of these power supplies, which is pretty surprising. The exposed capacitor top doesn't test as connected to either positive or negative, and most of the...
The original BlueSCSI project is a fork of ArdSCSIno, with some code bug fixes to improve compatibility with later Mac OS versions. Mac OS 9.2 can be booted on a G3 using BlueSCSI, which is pretty cool if you ask me.
This thread is for focusing on BlueSCSI variants which are available to use /...
This solution doesn't technically need anything at all from the original power supply. Not the case, not the PSU to motherboard cable, nothing.
The new power supply doesn't really fit in the original supply casing, tolerances are just not large enough for it to be safe. Hence the printed...
If all goes well with the PCB testing, I could have 5 ready after Christmas. :)
If you really want to do a large order then let's DM about it. The parts are starting to be in short supply (sigh, like everything else) and might need to be ordered in bulk from China.
After an incredibly long delay, this project is back underway. I've designed a protection PCB that has fuses and zeners to protect the LC motherboard, and it's on the way from JLC now.
@GeekyBit has designed a very nice 3d printed mount for this setup.
More or less we're waiting for parts to...
If you're interested in trying a hardware and/or software fork of BlueSCSI, I have kits available that support external LEDs.
On my site, designs which are blue PCBs run the mainline BlueSCSI software. Green and black PCBs are running a forked version of the software on different...
Hello everyone,
As we all know, flex cables for a variety devices are starting to get a little bit creaky and in many cases have cracked. Great examples of these are display cables for the Macintosh Backlit Portable, PowerBooks, and the eMate 300 (though in the eMate's case it's because of a...
I had no idea that little power supplies like these even existed.
It's under-rated on the 5v line by a bit, but so is my board. And this is all-in-one. Just needs cabling and mounts.
The 5v regulator is rated at 4.25 amps, slightly less than the 4.75 which the original power supply is rated for.
It can briefly push 6 amps (this is the peak current limit), and if a small/quiet fan is integrated then 4.75 amps is probably doable. Just needs a fuse rated that high, currently...
Been a long time since any updates, sorry. I'm sending a pcb and parts to @GeekyBit so he can put together a better mounting bracket than I designed.
The PCB accepts a 12v power supply with barrel jack, or direct wiring into a 12v supply. There's no switch on the PCB, so your external 12v...