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Maybe you are right, still, if we want to prevent stresses from building up, gluing is still best, this will need surface area to be stable over time. a melt-in insert is still best here in that case, glued in place with epoxy or maybe even yellow glue (shoe repair glue) as it never fully hardens

I generally measure those buffer caps, and its exceedingly rare for them to fail, you can very likely re-use the old one. (that is my experience with hundreds of repairs under my belt) about the citric acid bath, you can use this, especially if the board is in a bad state. I use an...

When i had video issues with this motherboard i always focus around UE8, that row of chips, it manages the video signal. soldering there looks less then ideal on UE8 from what i can see. Maybe de-solder that row, clean up and place back? (it's what comes to my mind) also C3 and those other...

how about screw inserts, what they use when the wire-tap is damaged? they look like springs. if you can insert that, it will cover much more depth, and that should be stronger. I'm always concerned with the brittleness of the material, not much unlike the LC575 I'm fixing now.... Biscuit's.

Cool mods, for the knob it makes sense to rotate the hex profile, it will make things fit better, for the bezel part, adding the M4 nut is a concern, as the screws on the sides will pull on it all the time, it is quite likely to get loose over time. with inserts this risk is substantially...

Last month I stumbled upon a batch of Minolta CA-100 CRT Colour analysers, for $39,- each. so I thought, what the heck, let's order some and perhaps I can build one working unit out of the 3, since they looked Used with a capital U, obviously production floor units. Once they got here they...

I'd second that, noise is likely from the analog board, and likely related to capacitors, im not sure if you have swapped out all electrolytics, but if you have not, i suggest you do. also make sure to re-solder the flyback transformer and coils on the board, flybacks and essentially all...

That is a very fair price, not bad at all! maybe for threads they could be designed in, and then printed since the resolution should be high enough. on the hex keys, i have just drilled these out, since the slot keeps the hex key in place anyway, and my added knob fill keeps in in place, so...

it is a good alternative when capacitor leakage has wrecked the original PCB. some things to consider: - bathe the PCB in some citric acid (you can buy this in powder form and add to water) the alkaline cap juices will bubble and once that has stopped, you can remove it and rinse, don't...

Here are the fill-in pieces for the knob, you'll need 2 of them. so for future reference, - Hook 2X - Knob 2X - Knob fill 2X

I totally forgot to mention that i replaced the capacitors with normal DIP ones, allot of this is just me doing things to make it all fit on the fly, i also removed the IR sensor, you don't need it. Otherwise it looks pretty smooth, i think it's possible to grind down the screw inserts to...

It seems you are correct, those were kind of an after thought, I'll upload them tomorrow as well, they are just tiny wedges that fill in the knobs

The Knobs i had i have drilled out slightly to get a tight fit, and then i pressed the allen key in the knobs, after cutting them to length, this may not be preferable for laser sintered material, it depends on it's brittleness, the allen key should be a tight fit so it not loose. it's a bit...

Hi wottle, first of all, those prints look to be of good quality, so that is great! 1: the support on the bezel, is indeed a support, as this was intended for extrusion printing, its an extra help to make sure the print is levelled perfectly, quite important for extrusion printing, it can be...

Thank you sir! i also have a big box of capacitors here bought as a pack per kilo, usually works, but contains nothing over 450V, ill check for some other cap assortments also

i found this part at LCSC https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/C249170.html i think this will fit

I have a question about this CL26 cap, on powercc.org i see the recommended cap is 4.7nF 1600V, but the cap i see seems so small for that voltage, is the 1600V a typo? what did you use there voltage wise? i cannot seem to find 1600V caps that fit in that space, its quite tight.

you may want to upgrade the CCFL for an LED strip, they are cheap and available for 14" displays and will be brighter and save power

Wow, that is so cool!!! Awesome man!

Well, i remember when living in Shenzhen the sales girl asking, what brand do you want? while holding a box of nice aluminium brand lettering with Sony / Toshiba / LG / and so on. funny that was. there are hundreds of companies making monitors, often with recycled displays, where they take the...