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Also, https://web.archive.org/web/20210423175417/https://mac68k.info/forums/thread.jspa?threadID=277

I don’t yet have a logic analyser - sorry. This has been discussed before, I just found: https://68kmla.org/bb/index.php?threads/se-30-overclock-is-it-possible.5186/post-58845

No-go on that. It does, if I feed the bodge wire to the PDS slot C16M it starts. I found some info about this Sonnet card that clock doubles the SE/30 on Everymac.com. Looks like they have some logic to get things working. Would love to get my hands on one to reverse engineer.

I tried this and it 100% does not work. Just seeing a simasimac. The 25MHz chip in there should be good for 31MHz. Any ideas?

Pff, don’t need L2 cache. It makes barely any difference on my IIci. So I’m going to have to try this. Would it be as simple as desoldering the CLK pin of the 68030 and running a patch wire to the output pin of Y2? Or better to connect to the C32M output of UH7?

That would be an easy way to get a 2x speed boost. Seems a bit too good to be true because if you look at any of the 030 upgrades that fit in the CPU socket, they have a very large amount of logic.

Interesting, could this be pulled off with the CPU?

It looks great. No need to do any cleaning, maybe a quick blast with compressed air if you fancy. What I'd do is, remove the caps with the twist method (or whatever method you prefer), then use braid to clean up the pads. You could add fresh solder and then go over with braid again to get them...

Difficult to advise - we can’t see the board to see how relatively clean or filthy it is :) Maybe post a photo of the board? If relatively clean: don’t bother. If very dirty: I wouldn’t use any vinegar as it’s very corrosive and really only necessary for neutralising battery acid. An IPA bath...

Unlikely you killed more than just the ADB chip itself, although possible. i'd recommend installing PLCC sockets on your purple board. I did this on two of mine and it made things so much easier to debug.

Another idea is to run the oscillator outside of the board and then run a wire with the clock signal to the board. Regarding your bombed board, you say the problems began when you swapped the clock crystal with the one off your original board. Did you try putting back the bombed board's...

Let us know how it goes with the PSU. Looking at your purple Reloaded board I see the ADB chip is installed wrong. Guessing you caught and corrected that? Maybe post a pic of it as you had it when you'd finished assembling it.

@This Does Not Compute I too, would be interested in a video! You clearly put so much care into the whole process from start to finish, but were let down in certain key aspects by JLC. The poor packing and their 'hand-washing' is especially disappointing. I hope you can get your three boards...

Solved! https://68kmla.org/bb/index.php?threads/macintosh-se-30-logicboard-recreation-thread-revival.39485/post-512595

Also, have you looked at your voltages while the board is powered up? You could monitor it on the +5v at the oscillator.

Wow, this is quite an impressively tricky puzzle. It just doesn't seem plausible that you'd have the same problem with the clock crystal across multiple original boards and Reloaded boards. First thing I'd ask myself is, what's the common factor across all of these boards when I test them out...

Nothing like that. It helps the solder 'stick' to the pad and component leg. Solder that you buy already has flux in it but sometimes its not enough. Without flux it would be extremely hard to do any soldering.

C3, C4, C5, C6. The ones arranged in a square shape next to the Sony sound chips. You could start with those but I'd recommend planning to replace them all eventually. If there's any sign of leakage, the responsible caps need to go, and the electrolyte needs to be cleaned up with isopropyl...

Also, my 540c came with the same hard drive that has the same issue with stiction, it even makes exactly the same ‘stuck’ noise as yours. While watching your video I was begging for you to find that all it needed was a tap to get going, and then you did just that!

This is a brilliant effort and I enjoyed your video. I have a PB 180 that I’d like to replace the polariser film on as it got damaged during baking to resolve the tunnelling issue. I hope we can find a method for sticking these down reliably in future .