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I’ll be making a full video when I get the restoration done, which will be up on my YouTube channel. I can post some photos tomorrow, essentially what happened was some repaired screw wells on the front bezel snapped immediately, and the 3D printed hinge standoff part broke off due to the glue...

Only PowerBook to do that, plenty of later ones had CD drives on the front though, this one included if I had the right CD module. I just actually spent a few hours tonight trying to get the 150’s hinges working. New 3D printed mounts and lots of glue. Broke immediately though, it’s more than...

Good luck, hope we can get some people in here. I could make a short for my secondary channel as well if you’d like. I’ve got some scores but I’m not submitting yet because I think I can do better. Edit: put out a community post on my channel. Hopefully that can help!

Whoops! Copy and pasted this directly from the other forum, didn’t take even a moment to look it over it seems 😅 It’s been edited now.

Thanks! I’m working towards evolving my soldering methods, been practicing with hot air on a dead power Mac G5 board I’ve got. Will be looking into some soldering tweezers in the future too.

Hey folks! I just finished up and posted a video detailing my recent restoration of a PowerBook 100 laptop. Let me know what you think! I also did a similar video a few months back on the PowerBook 145, so here's a link to that if you're interested:

Looks like you forgot to attach the video there. And yeah, soldering tweezers is probably the best way, though the one I looked at cost as much as my hot air station, so I haven’t got any.

In cases of no to medium corrosion/leakage, the twist method works well. If you get a really bad board, you're probably going to need a hot air station anyway, as you will have serious cleaning to do underneath big surface mounted chips, requiring removal for proper repair. In those bad cases...

Yeah, this is why I'd recommend twisting them off if you don't own a hot air station. Never lost a pad using it, it's safer than a soldering iron if you do it correctly. Good luck fixing it.

There's a bunch of stuff that fails on the Classic/Classic II analog boards but I can't keep it all straight. We need a resource or thread giving a rundown on the common failures that can just be linked whenever someone's having AB trouble on one of these. If anyone makes one, I'll throw it up...

After further analysis, I now pronounce your problems to be corrosion related ;) I'm guessing that you had a pretty nasty battery in there. Time to take the CPU card off and check for damage around the board... Good luck.

My PowerBook 170 has issues for months with my RaSCSI (which worked fine on other systems) until I realized it wanted termination power off, other systems didn't mind. It can change between systems which is why I brought that up. It worked on my 180c with term power on (which is just a color...

Alright, here's the rundown. Both the iPad 2 and 3 are based on the Apple A5 SoC, which performs terribly on anything past iOS 8 (and even iOS 7 to a degree). So don't update unless you're prepared to deal with some pretty awful performance. The iPad 2 can be downgraded to 6.1.3, so if you did...

What I've learned from my time getting SCSI devices working is that in cases of odd behavior, termination is almost always at fault. I'd try to switch the termination jumpers/resistor blocks (depending on the model) and seeing if you've got different results. The dead internal HDD on the 170...

I’m no expert in these sort of things, seems it was current related? Not sure, seems like it wouldn’t be a concern anyway. I read through the whole feature list for the new revision and it seems like a big step up!

Sweet! Glad to see the new release for this project. Will be looking into these for sure for my PowerBooks. One question, does this revision include a fix for the over voltage issue when it’s used mid-chain? I know that it doesn’t seem to cause any damage but I’d just feel better knowing that...

when removing: be careful! I've heard the PCBs on the CD300s are pretty fragile.

What tool do you use to get the stats display on the top left like that? Is that built in to OS X?

Gonna have to be vMac then, don’t have any compacts (yet). I’d think that it would run fine on a PowerBook 100 though, it ought to. It’s a 68000, black and white, system 6. And the game is from 89, not 86 or some time like that. Nope though, gives an error that it needs 1MB of RAM (the PowerBook...

Unfortunately I don’t… I haven’t gotten a chance to play it yet though, both the systems I’ve got on me right now (180c and 100) won’t open it for one reason or another.