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The order of steps would be as follows: Weld cracked together with DCM liquid solvent. Scrape off as much metallic paint as possible with a small box cutter in between the ribs. Then apply the fiberglass mesh and JB weld. Somehow, perfectly sand off the metallic paint on the backs of the...

Cutting 2.0mm thick polycarbonate zapped all my energy, so I can only imagine how precisely cutting METAL would be! ChatGPT suggested I use fiberglass mesh tape that has adhesive backing and then put JB weld on top of that. Why mesh? Because the JB Weld would be able to go through the gaps in...

Cutting out only this tiny 27 x 10 mm piece for reinforcing the back of the 5 ribs was tough, even though the polycarbonate is only 2mm thick. It was cold in my room before, but now sweat is pouring off my brow! 💦 But I can’t use that until I have tried to close the crack with the solvent, and...

And so it begins…

If you look closely, the tips are all sharp hooks... https://www.amazon.com/Plaque-Remover-Cleaning-Adjustable-Cleaner/dp/B0F1K99FCR For my plan to work using DCM solvent, my flat PC rectangular piece (shown in red in my previous post) would need to lay flat across the ribs with virtually no...

Just had a new idea to supplement what my current plan. You can see on my Amazon order that I have a 2.0mm thick transparent Polycarbonate sheet. I intended that to be used only for testing of the DCM liquid, but maybe it can serve a more practical purpose too. What if I remove as much of...

LOL. I guess the lack of comments are basically telling me: "Go for it, James. We're waiting with bated breath to see if it works out for you." Funny. Well, I found a video from the manufacturer of the Dichloromethane (DCM) liquid, and it's curious to see their female demonstrator pour it...

Okay, folks. After many hours of talking to ChatGPT and searching on my own, I've changed my mind about using screws or drilling holes, because ChatGPT thinks that would weaken the aging plastics of the Mac Portable. Here's my tentative plan now... Buy Acrysunday (Dichloromethane: DCM) in...

You quoted the part of my earlier post where I was talking about JB Weld, so I assume you must be asking if JB Weld will stick onto the smooth parts of the hinge in the vicinity of the crack, on the backside where those five ribs are. And the answer is NO because the plastic in that area would...

ChatGPT contends that for use on polycarbonate, the original 24-hour cure JB Weld is better than the clay putty stick. 🤷‍♂️ Separately from that, I was able to clean and lube the cylindrical hinges, thanks to my seeing how @techknight used pliers to squeeze the end and push to get the inner...

Okay, Guys. @Oelmuvun got my brain thinking about hot-welds. What if we just forget the crazy expensive (for me) and toxic Weld-On 16 and instead ponder alternative welds? Let's start by considering the techniques shown in this short video (worth your time to watch): With that video in...

@Oelmuvun Ideas like that are the very reason I started this thread. Different people have different great ideas, and collectively, we can perhaps come to the best overall fix. I honestly had not thought of using anything like that before. I must profess my complete and utter ignorance! But...

The question at this stage focuses on what cement I should buy. Because even if I drill or add sewing needles, etc., the plastics still need to be somehow glued or welded together. The metal parts we've spoken about would serve as "reinforcements." If you've read the previous posts, you know...

Using "bolts/machine-screws" is not practical based on my observations of the machine, and you can kind of see that in the photo I marked up with measurements in my earlier reply to you. Why? Because the 5 Ribs are just too thin, as you could see from my measurements. And if you read earlier...

@RolandJuno Thank you so much for answering my Question #1 !!! That's the GOLD MEDAL ANSWER! 🏅 More specifically, from the part of the video you kindly linked for us, large pliers are required to squeeze that protruding piece (see below), then push inward to pop that piece out the other side...

Well, “removing” the cylindrical hinges from the left and right sides is truly easy, just as you kindly showed us. But how to OPEN/DISASSEMBLE each of those two hinges after they are removed, in order to lubricate or check lubrication, is still the mystery. (Question #1 in my opening post.) No...

You mean recreate the entire main structural piece? It's a pretty complex frame, as you can see at right in tech knight's video at 11:34. Bruce Rayne shows it even more clearly in his video here. That main plastic structural piece is basically holding nearly everything except the keyboard and...

In my review of the BABY FACE, oh yes. I had a lot of noise on the 12V rail shortly after power on, such that it even appeared on the CRT. I show that in my video with scope measurements following, starting at 23:29 below...

My experience with sub 1.0mm drill bits isn't good. They almost break when I look at them! :) Seriously, they aren't strong, and that's why I earlier said that even "titanium" at those diameters might not even be adequate. (Mitutoyo calipers used for all measurements.) Underneath the 5...

OK, well... While I ponder the toxic and cancer-causing risks of Weld-On 16, I'd like to go back to my Question #1 of my opening post, which no one has touched on yet. And maybe nobody replied to Q1 because no Portable owner has ever considered lubing the two removable hinge parts? @techknight...