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That part number throws a match to the Sharp LCD. The 5300cs/c/ce screens are 10.4", so the HLD0912-023010 would be the only possible match. Edit: HLD0912-023010 is actually a 9.4" LCD. http://macassemble.com/files/inventory/inventory.htm Ctrl+F for 661-0936 Hosiden pulls a match for apple P/N...

That's the 5300 grayscale LCD. Casio and Sharp supplied those This appears to be a Hosiden LCD

I've found some slight evidence that suggests that Hosiden made LCDs for the PowerBook 5300c (Color active matrix!) First: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Apple+Powerbook+5300+Display+Replacement/5333 This guide uses a mix of photos, but see the ones that appear to be taken from a service guide of...

No, it's all of them. They're all just as bad now (anything 5300 and earlier, the 1400s and 3400s are getting bad too)

Yep, I guess there are 3 or 4 shades total.

Remember, there's two different colors. PB 100, 500, 200 (Duo) Series light gray, and then PowerBook 190/5300, 1400, 3400, 550c, 2400c, G3 Kanga dark gray. Then there's the black used in wallstreet+ models.

Just how! I couldn’t get above 20,000 since by level 4 the enemies guard the last dots to pick up and I just couldn’t get to them. How did you do that?

That bat in mouse stampede is the worst. Impossible to get rid of, random movements, and a huge hitbox. I'm close to the record but not there yet, had to stop playing due to how much that darn bat was frustrating me. Oh, and also, if you click the increase starting score button too many times...

Did it sound like dust crackling? I've heard that sort of thing from a lot of CRTs I've seen. I've always assumed that it's dust on the tube reacting with the sudden high voltage. Never been sure about that though.

I’ll be making a full video when I get the restoration done, which will be up on my YouTube channel. I can post some photos tomorrow, essentially what happened was some repaired screw wells on the front bezel snapped immediately, and the 3D printed hinge standoff part broke off due to the glue...

Only PowerBook to do that, plenty of later ones had CD drives on the front though, this one included if I had the right CD module. I just actually spent a few hours tonight trying to get the 150’s hinges working. New 3D printed mounts and lots of glue. Broke immediately though, it’s more than...

Good luck, hope we can get some people in here. I could make a short for my secondary channel as well if you’d like. I’ve got some scores but I’m not submitting yet because I think I can do better. Edit: put out a community post on my channel. Hopefully that can help!

Whoops! Copy and pasted this directly from the other forum, didn’t take even a moment to look it over it seems 😅 It’s been edited now.

Thanks! I’m working towards evolving my soldering methods, been practicing with hot air on a dead power Mac G5 board I’ve got. Will be looking into some soldering tweezers in the future too.

Hey folks! I just finished up and posted a video detailing my recent restoration of a PowerBook 100 laptop. Let me know what you think! I also did a similar video a few months back on the PowerBook 145, so here's a link to that if you're interested:

Looks like you forgot to attach the video there. And yeah, soldering tweezers is probably the best way, though the one I looked at cost as much as my hot air station, so I haven’t got any.

In cases of no to medium corrosion/leakage, the twist method works well. If you get a really bad board, you're probably going to need a hot air station anyway, as you will have serious cleaning to do underneath big surface mounted chips, requiring removal for proper repair. In those bad cases...

Yeah, this is why I'd recommend twisting them off if you don't own a hot air station. Never lost a pad using it, it's safer than a soldering iron if you do it correctly. Good luck fixing it.

There's a bunch of stuff that fails on the Classic/Classic II analog boards but I can't keep it all straight. We need a resource or thread giving a rundown on the common failures that can just be linked whenever someone's having AB trouble on one of these. If anyone makes one, I'll throw it up...

After further analysis, I now pronounce your problems to be corrosion related ;) I'm guessing that you had a pretty nasty battery in there. Time to take the CPU card off and check for damage around the board... Good luck.