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@caver01 , thank you! At this point, I should mention to everyone that my big reason to have an extra brightness knob is not merely for a Crystal Clear Mac Effects case. I want a spare one for use in another application, which I will now explain. You see, I recently did a video about the Color...

My concern is about the fit of even the original Knob you created in terms of tightness. How "tightly" does the original fit in terms of how much those two "split" pieces "spread" when the knob is forced onto the POT's shaft? We haven't really evaluated that yet, but what we do know is Resin...

@caver01 I downloaded your new STL. It only contains "Mac SE Brightness Knob Combined - 6.2 ID.stl". It does NOT also contain the combined "brim" version, which is needed to get around JLC3DP's infuriating min. size requirements: I suppose you might argue that you only made the slightly...

@caver01 Incredible work and insight! I downloaded your "macintosh_9inch_crt_cap_v1_FIXED.stl" just now, then uploaded it to JLC3DP here, clicked "Printing Risk" shown at left on their site, and see that all areas which were previously colored red with the original STL file (indicating 0.5mm...

Since this has now largely become a 3D printing thread, I'd like to ask if any of you STL file creators know why the following model looks "transparent" in places... Take note of this little arrow... Now look at the view below and note how the arrow looks like it is suspended in mid air...

I have my JLC order on hold, so I look forward to hearing your feedback. Thanks!

Thank you for sharing your thoughts. I actually often buy JLC3DP prints in SLS Nylon because of the lower price. But it can be almost too flexible at times. For example, I had a 040 heatsink clip, created by @jmacz , printed in SLS Nylon but the protruding arms ended up not being straight...

I added your fan bracket to my JLC3DP price quote today, hoping to have in printed in PA12-CF (Carbon Fiber reinforced Nylon), but JLC says some portions of the bracket (as shown in red below) are 0.5mm or less. Do you think that is a non-issue and I can safely just tell them to print it...

This is what I have in my JLC3DP Cart right now... 1) Resin Printing (no brim needed): Resin is more brittle and less forgiving when it comes to plastic flexing, but this print will provide a 100% transparent brightness knob. 2) FDM printing (brim needed to satisfy their min. size...

This thread seems to have been 3D printing focused since Post #6. :-) But for a very logical reason. The topic of the CLEAR CASE from MacEffects naturally leads everyone to ponder the important bits which need to be made clear, such as the brightness knob... And that brightness knob also...

Yes. Here is your "Mac_SE_Brightness_Knob_Combined.stl"... Until now, I've only had things printed in JLC Black Resin. Lots of Resin choices, but none are as durable as PLA, I don't think. So for example, if that inner piece (with split down the middle) is supposed to flex a bit, I'm not...

Looking forward to hearing back from you after it has been printed and tested. The original feet are here. I had issues getting aeberbach's original STL file printed at JLC3DP because it was a single file with two parts needing printing, which is a big no-no at JLC3DP: So I contacted him and...

2010 iMac running Sonoma? If so, how does it perform? My wife has been using our late 2009 27" iMac with Intel i7 all these years. I bought the top end model at the time, which is why it's lasted so long, although I did have to bake the video card to keep it going. It's still working, but I've...

You know, I've largely forgotten the details about the upgrades I performed on my very first Mac back in the 80's. I only remember it started out as a 128K Mac, then got upgraded to a 512Ke and then a Plus, and I believe I added that very Brainstorm upgrade too. I eventually sold that machine...

I have a 5126 Backlit Portable, and there are some very minor areas of darkness, but nothing on order of what this thread is showing. I also am aware there is no modern replacement for the LCDs used on the Portable, but is the same true of PowerBooks? They are all custom made panels?

I guess the question is, "for how long"? We know how long the wet stuff stays on — for decades until it hardens like a rock. Dry lube won't harden, and so long as it will truly stay in place for many years, it sounds like a great alternative to wet lubricants.

I recently did a video about the ZigZagJoe LCD Color Kit for the SE/30, which is a fantastic product. It makes me quite sad there is no similar solution for the PowerBooks. That old tech degrades, and while I'm shocked at how well your bake worked, the fact is the tech hasn't de-aged as a...

You seem to be talking about this very faint ghost window... How long before it vanishes completely, or does it never vanish until power is cycled?

Sadly, I don't own any of those models, and because of that, I have no answers to your important questions. My concern would be that if HUMIDITY was the root problem, the tunnel vision would come back over time because you wouldn't leave it in a sealed container with desiccants all the time...

Oh, so you're not on US 120VAC power then. I was thinking you were. 220VAC means your Mac's Analog board is an International Version. And it means your Hyperdrive's PSU would need to be made for that power level too, unless it can accommodate 120VAC or 220VAC. But I would assume the PSU...