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It wouldn't hurt to recap the power supply. It is entirely possible it can't quite support the current required for normal operation.

The LCII isn't too bad to solder. The power supply is a little cramped. You might find some cheap alarm clock, dvd player- anything - at a garage sale or thrift store to practice soldering on first.

If your SCSIKnife is known to work, then you really need to replace the capacitors on the motherboard and power supply. Failing capacitors cause all sorts of odd issues. Failed capacitors eat traces which also cause failures. If you keep searching and asking around I'm sure you'll hear this...

You might just shop around for another ADB mouse that either works, or, that you can steal parts from.

I use it on a IIgs with ADB, but it will work on anything with ADB. I don't think the person makes too many of them, thus the higher price. I have to say it does work pretty well and it isn't frustrating like the warn out roller ball.

I have one of these - it works very well but it is a little pricey. It seems to be out of stock now. https://www.tindie.com/products/ttdesign/apple-desktop-bus-adb-optical-mouse-retro-board/

I'm glad you got it working! It can be frustrating to dig deep into this. I'm feeling inspired to get back to my Q610's goofy vram issue!

is the capacitor by UA10, C22 I think, the correct type? Why not get a cap kit from somewhere like Console5 and redo everything? here is a guide: https://recapamac.com.au/macintosh-lcii/

Is the PSU putting out the right voltages?

well done! you've given me more confidence to get my Q610 working!

The screen shot I posted was captured on the Q610, then displayed on my macbook. I couldn't save as JPG or something else, so I took a screen shot of that screen shot. :/

It seems like it would be on the D[0]-D[31] side. There are other video memory related signals that come out of the djMEMC chip you could check. VRAS0, VCAS0, TROE0, DSF0 and more. These go thru resistors before going to the memory chips. In the past I've created an excel spreadsheet to...

I'd check the rest of the data lines. I'm fighting a similar battle with a Q610. It is a slog :/

I see in other threads you talk about a screen shot - I finally understood what you meant - not a "phone camera" picture but an acutal shift-cmd-3 screen shot on the computer! doh! The image has the corruption in it, so it looks to be the "data in" side of things. thanks for the pointer!

I'd check all of the traces between the onboard VRAM, VRAM SIMMs and the CLUT.

It does have B&W mode, but fortunately (or unfortunately) the video is perfect until I switch to Thousands of colors. The size of the screen doesn't seem to matter either.

I forgot about the RC chips. You should be able to see continuity from the Antelope CLUT chip PD[0] - PD[31] pins over to an adjacent resistor chip, and then from the other side of the resistor chip to the VRAM slot. Or from CLUT to VRAM with some resistance. For the pinout of the CLUT chip...

If I were you I'd check all the traces first before trying to remove any components. I suppose bad VRAM could cause it. I don't know if it would work without onboard VRAM. I fixed an LC II recently that had kinda similar video issues, and it was strictly a couple of broken traces between the...

You might have some bad traces from the VRAM to the CLUT. I googled a 650 motherboard pic and I believe it is the "Antelope" chip 343S109-A right next to the video out connector. The dot * on the motherboard is pin one. Take a look at the pinout here...

If you don't want to try to make it, you can buy it from ReactiveMicro: https://www.reactivemicro.com/product/transwarp-gs-cpu-cable/#prettyPhoto[product-gallery]/2/