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Understandable. It sounded like from your original post that you were having trouble with pads lifting, hence the idea of replacing the whole PCB. If yours is in good shape otherwise then that's likely unnecessary. I know that cracked/cold solder joints is a common problem on Mac 128/512/Plus...

If you're finding the pads on your analog board are getting to be overwhelming, it may be worth considering just replacing the whole PCB entirely. Kay has a BOM linked there too and most of the parts can be bought new/NOS.

Powering on then off again sounds to me like a short somewhere; the PSU goes into protection. The good news is that there's at least two options for replacements in development...but that's all I can say for now.

I'll preface this by saying I'm not a motorcycle expert, but I do think this is a great project for learning about working on them! Since it's an older model it should be much simpler than something new, and it sounds like your neighbor will be a great resource. Always ask questions, and don't...

IIRC the motherboard edge-connector harness is the same dimensions regardless of Mac model, from the CC all the way up to the 6500. The depth of the motherboards changed with the 580/630 and onwards (which is why the Takky mod requires chassis surgery, to move the harness closer to the front of...

The mechanical scroll wheel on the 1st gens always felt so premium to me, with how smooth it is. Back when they launched I wasn't super keen on them (I felt that burning MP3s to CD-Rs to play in my Discman was more economical) but after borrowing a friend's iPod I was instantly hooked.

There are dozens of us! Dozens!

Which is the "right way" to do 640x480 on a Color Classic has been debated for literally decades :ROFLMAO:

Slide-in Mac motherboards can handle output at different resolutions, including the Color Classic. They rely on "sense lines" from the analog board to determine what resolution to output. It's likely that you just need to get these sorted; the VGA mod for the Color Classic explains a bit more on...

Interesting how the Astec is designed so differently from the Sony PSUs in these...recapping a Sony one is comparatively pretty easy.

That's @Action Retro -- and that's the most legit reason to need to part with one's collection, good on him.

Hopefully billable hours at least?

Juniper EX2300-C-12P would be a good choice if you want an enterprise-quality switch in a compact, fanless footprint -- but it's best managed via CLI, so you'd have an opportunity to learn JunOS. If you want just a "dumb" unmanaged switch, I'd recommend keeping an eye on ServeTheHome's...

Stay tuned.

This is a typical symptom of a dead PRAM battery; the "jump start" trick (turn on, off then immediately back on again) was a common one back then.

I'd recommend formatting the SD card as ExFAT, which is the preferred option as it lets you work with larger disk images (per spec, FAT32 supports files no larger than 4GB). Also, if you haven't already, it would be a good idea to download the Apple Legacy Recovery CD image from the Macintosh...

Ha -- between my 550c and PPC-upgraded 540c I think I'm pretty satisfied with my Blackbird selection!

I had my SE/30 out for filming so I was able to run the same MacBench 3 disk test. I have a BlueSCSI version 2, without WiFi, running the latest firmware. The system has 8MB of RAM and is running System 7.1 using the Apple HD SC Setup 7.3.5 driver. I've attached the export from MacBench 3 if you...

The adapter that let you use the combo modem/Ethernet port for both connections at the same time was super clever. Such an innovative machine!

Yep, in the classic Mac OS, trying to force-quit an application was generally seen as a last-ditch effort. If you were lucky, the force quit would work and you could save your work in any other open applications before rebooting. More often, though, it wouldn't work and you had to hard-reboot...