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I wonder if the mentioned dental scaler would work for removing this metallic covering?

Oh, wow! Yes, that is significant. Ease of disassembly, but difficult to replace/repair that complicated of a piece as a whole. :mad:

Here is version 2 based on those measurements. Someone will have to print and test to see if adjustment is needed. Because you can see the entire face of the drive, I didn't think the JAZ logo needed to be recessed into the front.

This makes me wonder if the ribs are actually structurally significant, or if the design was to just reduce plastic quatity and weight. If not structurally relevant, then a possibly solid filled model/mold/print could be created as a replacement that may be stronger than the original. Or if...

Ok, so this bezel lets the whole face of the drive be seen, vs the 9100/9500 type bezel that only lets the media slot be shown (original faceplate probably removed?). So please provide 3 more measurements: width and height of the hole, as well as the depth (both sides, as the bezel is curved).

Regardless of the method you use to repair this hinge, you may want to completely disassemble so it so you have that sole piece isolated when you do the repair. It may also be helpful to try to make a mold of it in case you want to recast the part. How? There are plenty of methods that would...

I have done some research when thinking about creating my own acrylic case for a mini-cube... and that led me to Weld-on 4. I haven't opened it and tried it yet, but now that I look at the label, it has maybe some good things to work on poly-carbonate and not just clear acrylic. Weld-on 4 vs...

Probably the distance from the top of the drive to the top of the case (if even possible), or the distance from the bottom case to the bottom of the slot... just so we know how high to put the hole in the bezel. Maybe like these? Without the bezel in place, of course.

Here is my attempt at a quick mashup. You may have to remove the front faceplate on the jaz drive to get the eject button to work. Maybe that is not even in play as an OS eject may work.

That is a nice model that anyone can modify (@Stephen )... we would just need some measurements for the slot dimensions and height. There is a JAZ bezel on the other forum, but my membership has never been approved. Someone DL and reattach here?

JDW is in Japan and ordered from Netherlands. So I think it would have avoided the USA tariffs.

I am not sure why that was so long, as there was not a matching hole in the back panel cover. Sorry my iPad version is taking so long... the CR10 large 3D printer I just bought needs some work. I tried printing my design in quadrants on my smaller printer, to assemble with dovetails, but I...

If you have removed the 4 screws on each side and can remove the screen, you will see if there is damage on the video cable connector or not (on the motherboard). I would suspect the display itself. You can try some gentle "impact maintenance" around the lcd panel to see if anything changes...

I am going to need a bigger printer. I was digging through my inventory looking for something else, when I stumbled upon an old iBook 14" panel with a controller board. It is wider than the iic ! Since I have the VGA output card for my //e, I think this one will get saved for that. So much...

I have not tried this, but I am assuming that the true reason is not the acrylic changing color but the underlying paint. I think this is the same design as the lamp iMacs/iBooks (snow), where the shell is painted white from the inside. So there is not an inconspicuous place to test that...

That board looks almost identical to my Eyoyo 8", minus the audio in/out.

Having too many disassembled parts laying around, so I just put the working parts into the better case (marked bad analog board), so I have less clutter. I put in an older BlueSCSI 1.1 and I wanted to see the activity/power lights without modifying the case. Cheap and easy way was to use a...

I just picked up a Creality CR10 v2 from FB marketplace this morning... so running a first test print it may not be suitable until further testing. My Ender 3 Pro will only print to 8" so it is not wide enough to print as a single piece. I will try to print the full piece this week in Platinum...

This is just an example, I would like to test print to make sure it fits before I attach the STL files. The only thing I have modified is the Bezel and Back, I left all the other parts as released by @ArjenCNX

Yes, I will modify the design to fit the iPad screens (technically 9.7 inches). The three versions I have are all different sized (version 1-3), different mounting holes, and different bezel dimensions. @wottle let me know which version you have and I will work on that one first. iPad gen 1...