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I definitely want one! Have since the first mention. You might want to use my new combined file, as I upped the sides count as part of the refresh: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5195646/files

I’m pretty sure the group buy offer on the knobs was canceled due to excessive US shipping.

Hmmm. I own the 13 inch M4 Pro and have not had any issues. I do almost all of my daily computing on it and spend many hours every night in bed holding it just inches in front of my face. Just another anecdote, I suppose, and maybe I don’t have the same eye strain sensitivities as the next guy...

I am familiar with clear TPU. I had Wermy’s MintyPi hand-held arcade system (made to fit in an Altoids tin—it was pretty nifty) that you slipped into a clear TPU case. I am confident clear TPU comes in different hardnesses, but that slip case I had was flexible. It would not be my first choice...

I just printed and attached my desk scratch proof feet. Wow were they hard to attach. The fit is good, but angling a circle through a sharp metal hole was probably hanging up on burrs from my brim. I think I will modify my version to be just a tapered tube since it fits so tightly. I won’t...

I suppose we have now transformed this thread into a 3d printing discussion. . . but it will soon return to the clear case—I promise! Give this a try using the two-in-one file in my zip:

I used your link and uploaded the brim version of the post only. I could select FDM, PLA without any size limit warnings. It did suggest that I had “thin walls” which is obviously referring to the .25mm brim, but you can check a box to accept the risk of deformation. I even opened a chat with...

I wonder, what would happen if you had a built-in brim? I could easily add a thin “disc” to the part that you would just bend right off the edge once you receive it. That would make it bigger than 3x3 which might let you work past the warning. For the split post, you could either try the...

Interesting. I have never used one of these services, but I suppose you get good at them like anything else the more you use them. Also, I have not held a object printed in resin as far as I know. I had no idea they can be weak and that is a concern. That’s a good insight for this part. That...

Will JLC print the knob in resin? The only reason my model for the knob is two parts is to eliminate overhang issues for FDM, although a careful placement of supports might be fine. A resin knob would be ideal, but you’d want to use a combined knob-post version of the model. I just added that to...

Done. I should have considered not everyone who wants this would go through the slicing process themselves. This is a good reminder. I will try printing tomorrow. Once I get them fitted I will add another image to the printables item. As for separate STLs, this is trivially easy and pretty...

After watching the recent JDW video featuring the SE/30 color LCD conversion, I decided I needed the chassis feet that cover the metal and prevent desk scratches, (only in my case, MacEffects clear case scratches). Naturally, I will print the feet in clear filament, but then I noticed the...

For those planning to print a knob, I just updated the .STL file here. More than 3 years ago when I knocked this model together in TinkerCAD, the cone and cylinder shapes had a much lower maximum sides. Today you can bump up the sides to make things perfectly round at this scale. So, I...

YEAH! And it WORKS???@!!!! Is it re-capped yet? Going to need it if not. Lots of resources for this step are available, and it’s important. Mine sat unused for years before I inherited it. It Worked the first few boots, then everything started going south (no offense to anyone down-under, of...

Getting closer to reshelling my SE/30. . . Printed my version of the brightness knob, finally: Clarity isn’t perfect obviously with FDM printing, especially with something this thick. Early on I had a hell of a time printing with this, but eventually dialed in great settings for printing on my...

There was a time when I was seeking a decent price on an eMac base. I have come to realize that I should have just been satisfied finding a base at any price. You can get them attached to an eMac if you are lucky, or you can sometimes find folks selling just the base for about $100. Not long...

YES. and I would be interested in getting one in clear resin once you figure that out. FDM T-GLAS is probably fine, but clear resin would be better for sure. As far as I am concerned, the knob model was just my way to give at least just a tiny bit back to the community from which I have gained...

Oh no. . . I just looked up Design68 and now I am falling down that rabbit hole. I have built several mech keyboards over the years==even hand-wired, soldered diodes etc. etc. but these were all USB. So now I guess I am going to have to do figure out a “clear” ADB solution like yours. Thanks a...

Question @wottle how did you do the silver/clear cord on ADB mouse? I assume it’s from another device perhaps? Was there already ADB (4-pin DIN) connector or did you find an S-video cable, or put together your own connector? I am planning to 3D print a replacement brightness knob using the...

I just received my MacEffects case TODAY! I previously received the programmer’s switch, mouse, and speaker. I am really looking forward to transferring my restored SE/30 into the new shell. Your’s looks great, especially that keyboard! Here’s mine fresh out of the box!