I presume you mean to probe the legs of the PLCCs themselves while in their sockets? This is an interesting thought -- the chips seem to snap into the sockets pretty firmly, but I suppose it's quite possible a few legs aren't making a good connection. I just ordered some pin probes for my...
I've made significant progress in building my SE/30 Reloaded board. Unfortunately, all I'm getting out of it is a Simasimac. There's no chime at all from the speaker/headphone jack, except for a quick pop when I power the machine on. Here's what I've done so far:
--Tried multiple known-good ROM...
Did you buy the BlueSCSI as a kit, or preassembled? Are the terminating resistor packs installed? (Take a photo of the BlueSCSI and upload it here if you're not sure what those are, or if they're installed correctly.)
Yeah, I think the approach at this point is going to be throwing the daughterboard in the ultrasonic cleaner. I *might* be able to get the DC side of the main board in there too if I'm lucky. The PSU came to me with the through-hole caps already replaced, and I suspect there wasn't much cleaning...
I was handed a pair of IIsi power supplies to try to fix. One of them was easy to get working again, but the second is being stubborn. It's been fully recapped (including the SMD caps on the daughterboard), and it's producing the 5V standby rail. A known-good IIsi won't power on with it...
I don't have a Classic II board handy, but looking at some photos it appears that the positive pad for C6 hits a nearby via and likely connects to a SMD resistor on the bottom of the board.
If the ROM SIMM slot is trashed and the PotatoFi clips aren't helping, you can buy a replacement here:
https://www.peconnectors.com/sockets-pga-cpu-and-memory/hws1788/
Be warned that you'll likely still need to use the PotatoFi clips, as most reproduction ROM SIMMs are slightly too thin.
If you're looking to recap the PSU from your Quadra 700 and/or you have a Mac with an Astec AA15831, here's the complete list of all the electrolytic and film safety caps.
For convenience, here's a DigiKey list of everything you need: https://www.digikey.com/en/mylists/list/X1H5MFVEFT
Note...
Are there any recommended alternate parts for U3 and SD1? Both are low/no stock at JLCPCB. (The 100mW 100-ohm resistors at R39 etc are also low-stock, but part C160517 appears to be equivalent.)
Perhaps I missed something, but I'm having trouble getting JLCPCB to process the BOM and CPL files for the v2 desktop board -- it just keeps throwing a generic error. I tried removing the through-hole parts from the CPL but that didn't help. Maybe JLCPCB is just having server problems today, but...
Here's my interpretation, based both on the nature of the project and also my gut: The board was designed and released at no cost to the retro community for the benefit of the retro community. Sometimes people release stuff NC so they can protect their own ability to sell the item (commonly seen...
Out of curiosity I've been reading Bob Brant's "Build Your Own Macintosh and Save a Bundle" and found it to be quite interesting. The technical contents aren't exactly remarkable, but it's a great time capsule of what being a Mac owner was like in the late 80s/early 90s. Are there any other...
I've been finding that ever since I switched to Inventec Amtech flux, isopropyl alcohol just doesn't cut it when trying to remove the residue. I can scrub (and even soak) a board and it'll still be sticky afterwards. Does anyone have a recommendation for a cleaner that will work better? I know...
This is true, but I would have had to do almost as much work had I just produced five boards for myself, and my total out-of-pocket expenditure would have been *much* higher. The economies of scale really came into play with this one.
I wouldn't consider the precision required to be "extreme." The first set of clips that came off my Prusa Mini fit just fine using stock settings in the slicer.