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Here are board images, front and back. Haven't figured out the best way to detach the killy clip on the accelerator. Lmk if any of you have a safe method - don't wanna break components/break the clip.

I'm in the process of pulling the sucker out. I have an accelerator board so the safety clip for the board connector is hard to release. In the process of inventing a new tool to pry it open. Like, there's no need for it to be connector-wide! It'll be getting a trim as soon as it comes out...

I prolly should have added that there is no startup bong. Not quite sure what to do other than reflow the crack-prone solder joints. I'm going to redo the whole thing, but this is just to get it working short-term. I'm gonna power it on and poke at stuff with a plastic sticks. Any other thoughts?

Ahhh. Def don't wanna lose that, so I think DC to AC converter in the battery is the way to go. Come to think of it, I have a UPS with a battery a bit smaller than the footprint of the HD20, and that runs up to 150 minutes, so I could def get 90 minutes on older, less efficient equipment. Maybe...

Would that make it so I couldn't run of AC tho?

I can totally see the sailboat. I dumno what you're talking about. This mac was booting normally when it left the seller on its way to me.

I wanna take an HD20 and make it a battery pack for my Plus. Kinda like an incredibly heavy USB power bank, but for compact Macintosh all-in-ones. How much battery life you lot think it would provide?

Hahaha. I mean if you had to pick one from the start again. My bad on the wording. Sounds like you are totally happy with the one you have Anyways, I think homie's gonna throw the second one in, so that's cool. Those hot tweezers, tho! I think I'm just gonna fab a franken tool. Two regular...

Yeah, I was thinking the miniature one would come in handy for solder bridges and working in small confines. If you had to pick one?

Sick! Thanks. Resistance heat appliances are soooooo last millenium. I figured all the benefits I've realize with my induction cooktop probably translate to soldering, too! Do you have a recommendation on which handle size? I was thinking both, tbh.

Anyone done it? I am looking at Hakko's induction line with great interest. It's a bit different in that the temperature is determined by the tip, but given how induction works and how lightning fast it adjusts (the tip is monitored automatically) I think it would be quite useable! Things like...

SMH! I didn't move the hard drive over. Hahaha.

Spoke too soon! But is there a reason the mobo boots into System 9 in the 575 and gives me this warning in the classic?

Gotta solve CRT no image. I heard a static noise as it turned on, and the Apple bong, but there's no hair-lifting static when I brush the display with the back of my hand.

Don't matter. Just like a life-partner, the CC was picked for its look!

Oh, I meant the no PRAM battery! Haha.

Of course, I did dumbly stare at it wondering it wouldn't boot! Hahahaha.

OK, it's not from the factory. But it looks like it, save for a few black scuffs on the side, which I'll deal with. Look at this lobo!!! It's like it was put in a chamber that halts time!

This is a true. I have a giveaway pots and pans pile since switching. Hahahaha. And certainly the physics support induction being inherently faster, given the heat is instantly generated in the material, instead of being condictuvely controlled. A lot of what Certificate has noticed is due to...

True say! And with induction, they tend not to have tempered glass like halogen electric, so breaking them is way WAY easier. Professional grade induction is a whole other league, though. The circuitry for adjusting temps and delivering power quickly is far FAR superior to home induction. I...