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Here we go again.....

Oh don't worry, you can rest assured the very first thing I will be doing once they are ou the packet is posting a picture on here :)

And V1.2 PCB's have been sent off to JLC! I wanted to go for matte black + ENIG as a finish but that added about £20 to the cost of 5 boards! In the end I went with purple + ENIG as the purple LC III board looked real nice

I have to confess I'm not 100% sure there, I was testing it on a LCIII when I did my test's, I would expect the 45 would be the same but I haven't personally tested it. Yeah it's proabley enough for a LCI with a SCSI2SD, but your crazy souped up LC475 might require a tad more juice than one of...

-5V isn't actually required for the LC series to work, IIRC it is only used for serial Those ext hdd psu bricks do work fine (I have seen a couple of people use them) but I would worry about them being a little on the under powered side if you have spinning disks or PDS cards installed

And after much confused probing of the board the mystery NVRAM issue has been solved! So what was the issue? something bizarre and abstract? Not really.... One single via which should be connecting pin 4 of the MC34064 at UD9 to GND was instead connected to nothing One small piece of bodge...

Scratch that, I just found a second fault. I *think* this is the cause of the NVRAM weirdness but it's gone 2AM and I have work in the morning so I'm not going to be able to fix the issue and verify my theory until tomorrow (OK later today if we are being pedantic...)

I have seen that said about a few macs (notably the SE/30) and would be really curious to know the exact reason, I personally have 2 chip simms in both my SE and SE/30 and have no issues with them

Personally I normally have my iron set to 350°C but will go up to 400°C or even 450°C on occasion when more heat is required. 450°C will damage older boards really quickly in my experience so I wouldn't recommend going that hot when working on older stuff but I haven't had any issues using those...

Thanks :) And as a little update, the V1.1's have passed testing and the single fault in the PCB has been corrected. V1.2's will be going off to JLCPCB just as soon as I have finished cheking over the V1.1 LCIII design

I don't have one of these boards to hand to check but looking at the schematic it looks like pin 3 should be connected to ground so if you find which one is grounded and jump the other two you should be good :)

I have always used this site for my 10 switch adapters: http://myoldmac.net/FAQ/RGB-VGA-DIP-switchconfiguration.htm Looks to be the same table, just much easier to read :)

With the headphone socket removed your going to need to jump pins 1 and 2 on the headphone socket or you'll get no audio, there is a normaly closed switch between those pins that disconnects the internal speaker when headphones are plugged in

The firmware needed can be extracted form FirmTek's updater for their SeriTek/1S2 card available here: https://www.firmtek.com/download/

I really hate the way the windows 10 (and presumably 11) home don't let you set up a local account when you install it unless you (a) disconnect the PC from the internet or (b) enter "user" as a MS account, then enter a junk password at wich point it comes up with a error saying "something went...

You would need to jump the pads that correspond to the switch or you'll get no audio at all, there isn't really any need to remove the headphone socket to so this Assuming the 475 uses the same headphone socket as the I/II/III this is a suitable replacement...

someone on 68kmla made clones of those (I can never remember who, the name ti springs to mind but I can't find the messages from when I brought one) I don't think the design was ever released though Edit: just found my (still unassembled) board, it was tt who made them

Another possible culprit is the headphone connector, it has a little switch in it that switches between the internal speaker and the headphones so it is possible that if the inside of the port is corroded neither the internal speaker no headphones will work correctly

You and me both! In fact if I had to option to buy a unitron or a twiggy mac i'd pick the unitron over the twiggy any day.!

Oh cool, that looks really damn easy, thanks!