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Come on James, if you were an idiot, you would definitely not do so MANY tests, in depth, for the benefit of the whole community. You forgot about the SWIM, that's all ! :)

This community is just crazy !!! AWESOME.

@Kai Robinson Just received the board. Stunning quality, and so good to see all SMD already there ! :) I keep on salvaging what I can, fortunately I have new connectors as the old ones are just a pain to desolder...

@JDW Coming back to the improvement seen with the board inside. Would you mind testing voltages with the Mach-o-meter when inside or outside ? I'm still pretty convinced that the quality of the supply at the board plays a role, as you had yourself pointed out in one of your videos. It is certain...

New board ordered. Analog board will need recap (see bottom left) at least, but not in a bad condition How do we stop corrosion for good on the chassis ?

Replying to Myself... MacEffects... Any other source ?

@Kai Robinson Hey Kai ! Is there an existing source for Classic reloaded boards, or should I start from the Gerber's ?

Did take the motherboard out. I already did a vinegar/toothbrush path, now in the ultrasonic cleaner (which is a bit small unfortunately). The board itself does not look that damage at first sight once all the residues are out. Anyway, I do not have a lot of hope. ooooh yes ! See the "after"...

I'm not sure how many tests you did, but given all the modifications, insertions, etc... even your usual perfect solder joints could have suffered in the process. Nevertheless, a board inside the case with shorter connections does behave slightly differently on the analog levels. The ultimate...

So........... @JDW Seems my cable extension theory was right in the end ? :) :) I'm lucky.... (or the fact it's inside, or 200 other small parameters) And don't get me wrong, I still don't have an extension cable, and this is my next priority as I hate bring the chassis in and out. By the way...

Health is precious James ! I understand you want to get to the bottom of things... Thank you so much for the in depth time you take testing. So you confirm there is some kind of persistence when the double bong occurs ? (which is why you are waiting those 10-15 minutes) Zane you mentioned...

Oh ! I was fooled by the horizontal scale being different in the second screenshot... sorry about that.

@JDW Did you have a chance to test without the power supply extension cable ?

Does not sound like major changes, unless the new display would behave electrically very differently. When the double bong occurs, it looks like HALT is triggered pretty immediately after Vcc rise. There is a condition that triggers it earlier than expected.

Do we know what physical differences there are between FloppyEMU rev. B and rev. C ? It could well be a very minor tolerance issue somewhere.

How did you start ? I even hesitate to force the board out, the chassis is si fragile now.

Hello all, A while ago, I had bought a very cheap non working Classic. I opened it today, to find a very badly battery bombed machine. I haven't extracted the board yet, but think it will be outside reasonable repair, so this will be a good parts source for me. This is the first time I have so...

The fact the issue persists for some time even after reboot then clears out would suggest some capacitor at work there. I can not see how persistence would be possible if not caused by a cap somewhere. Could also explain the issues you see with the WarpSE ?

Just tested from the internal ports as well, still no double bong.

Hi all ! So as @JDW kindly asked me, I did carry out a test with one of my SE reloaded boards (red one). This was a quick and dirty test, will be more rigorous now. The board is currently with 4 MB RAM, in an SE/30 enclosure, with a fully recapped Sony PSU, analog board not recapped at all...