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awesome work so far! the chassis is used for grounding. So if you paint it be sure to mask where necessary to maintain ground. I had a bunch of my frames replated at a local shop. It wasn’t much money and they came out great. The shop took care of chemically and mechanically removing the rust...

@Mac84 FWIW I paid just a bit more than that ATTEN for the fancy pants Metcal HCT-1000 used. You might be able to find their less expensive model (HCT-900-11) used for a similar price as the ATTEN and end up with a pro level tool. I've been absolutely loving the Metcal stuff I've bought so far...

Have you already tested the RAM? I wonder if it's just flaky RAM that's causing more of a fuss with OS X compared to OS 9. Another thing to try would be simply reseating the processor card. Maybe there's a marginal connection there?

You should probably use the Beige PPC Old World ROM forum to post about the TAM. Perhaps it'd make sense to rename that forum to remove the word 'beige' so it more explicitly includes the TAM.

If you’re lucky enough to have an electronics surplus shop in your area you can find great deals on all the little bits and bobs. For instance, Excess Solutions in San Jose has the molex connectors, pins and wire extremely cheap. The $20 crimpers linked above or even regular needle nose pliers...

The preferences UI is really fascinating. I especially love the screen dimming options. "We'll dim the screen some time between 10 and 20 minutes."

Have you measured the potentiometer with a multimeter to see if the value is changing as you turn the dial? You can do that with the power disconnected. If you don't see a change, try cleaning the pot with contact cleaner. If that doesn't work, replace it.

@Patrick This is a cheap crimp tool that I believe should work for KK 396 type pins https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0195UWT9U

All that rust has likely created a connection as if headphones were plugged in. Try replacing or even just removing the rusty connector and your speaker will probably start working.

The oily sticky stuff is dielectric grease. It's applied under the anode cap to prevent arcing. If you clean it off, be sure to replace it with new grease.

@JDW I think the cables on the 128K/512K are standard Molex KK 396 11-pin. It should be easy enough to make an extension cable. But to your point, more of a hassle than buying a readymade ATX extension.

I'm late to the party, but here's my Lisa motherboard before restoration. :sick: Fortunately the scary story ended up having a happy ending..

i don’t use a single machine long enough to tell, but that doesn’t surprise me. If you want a longer lasting battery you should stick with lithium.

I shared a workaround that I found helpful here. https://tinkerdifferent.com/threads/watched-forums-as-home-page.77/

Nice work! It'd be nice to note the sizes for each cap, especially for analog boards. SMD size codes can be confusing to newcomers and some analog boards have some caps in odd sizes to provide enough clearance. For example IIRC there are a couple 330uF caps on the Color Classic AB and one of...

Huh, I'm surprised you didn't have a problem with elephants foot. Did you shorten the exposure time for the initial layers compared to a typical print?

Might Resources be a good place to put recapping guides? It'd be nice to have something there before the site is opened up.

Randomly cycle through Motter, Garamond, Myriad and SF Hello Just kidding ;-)

@Drake These do look good! What sort of support and angle setup did you use for these?

For those that never want to see certain forums like Food & Cooking, Cars & Coffee or whole groups of forums like Acorn etc. (no offense), you can use a CSS element blocker to hide them. I'm using 1Blocker and it worked great for this. Here's an example showing a rule to block one of the trading...