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Bummer. Did you check and/or swap the CUDA chip? IIRC from my brief cleanup, it's near one of the caps and looked a little crusty on mine. I've had similar symptoms on Color Classics that ended up being issues with crud under the CUDA, a dead chip or a problem with the nearby crystal.

Thanks! I didn't leave it on long enough to notice the PSU temp. Are you getting the right voltage out of your PSU? Did you try swapping in one from another model like an 8100?

There are also dedicated board preheaters too. I recently got one and it’s been helpful in reducing time applying much higher heat. One of the benefits of the Metcal solder stations is that you get constant perfect temp even on big ground planes without needing to adjust anything. It’s been...

On the FX888 I used 350-370 for most tasks. Im using a Metcal MX500 now which doesn’t have heat adjustment. I’m using their 370° cartridges which have worked very well. As Bruce’s post indicates, your ideal temp may differ due to the iron and work youre doing along with your own preferences. As...

I bit the bullet and opened it up. Fortunately nothing broke. The battery was fine and the caps have leaked a bit but not terribly. I cleaned up the caps and surrounding areas with cotton buds and IPA for now since my 'lab' is being remodeled at the moment and I don't have easy access to tools...

Most Macs I come across in the 8x00 style case are trashed. Usually bezels missing, cracked plastics, yellowed etc. It was a treat to find this Quadra 840av in such nice condition. I'm afraid if I open it, it'll crumble to bits. I might just enjoy it like this for a while to avoid the heartbreak.

I have a 10-pin adapter, but the instructions it came with include settings for 6-pin as well. The only thing I couldn't get working was my NeXT 21" color display. It wouldn't sync to a Mac with any of these settings. Anyone know if it's possible to get that display working with any model of Mac?

awesome work so far! the chassis is used for grounding. So if you paint it be sure to mask where necessary to maintain ground. I had a bunch of my frames replated at a local shop. It wasn’t much money and they came out great. The shop took care of chemically and mechanically removing the rust...

@Mac84 FWIW I paid just a bit more than that ATTEN for the fancy pants Metcal HCT-1000 used. You might be able to find their less expensive model (HCT-900-11) used for a similar price as the ATTEN and end up with a pro level tool. I've been absolutely loving the Metcal stuff I've bought so far...

Have you already tested the RAM? I wonder if it's just flaky RAM that's causing more of a fuss with OS X compared to OS 9. Another thing to try would be simply reseating the processor card. Maybe there's a marginal connection there?

You should probably use the Beige PPC Old World ROM forum to post about the TAM. Perhaps it'd make sense to rename that forum to remove the word 'beige' so it more explicitly includes the TAM.

If you’re lucky enough to have an electronics surplus shop in your area you can find great deals on all the little bits and bobs. For instance, Excess Solutions in San Jose has the molex connectors, pins and wire extremely cheap. The $20 crimpers linked above or even regular needle nose pliers...

The preferences UI is really fascinating. I especially love the screen dimming options. "We'll dim the screen some time between 10 and 20 minutes."

Have you measured the potentiometer with a multimeter to see if the value is changing as you turn the dial? You can do that with the power disconnected. If you don't see a change, try cleaning the pot with contact cleaner. If that doesn't work, replace it.

@Patrick This is a cheap crimp tool that I believe should work for KK 396 type pins https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0195UWT9U

All that rust has likely created a connection as if headphones were plugged in. Try replacing or even just removing the rusty connector and your speaker will probably start working.

The oily sticky stuff is dielectric grease. It's applied under the anode cap to prevent arcing. If you clean it off, be sure to replace it with new grease.

@JDW I think the cables on the 128K/512K are standard Molex KK 396 11-pin. It should be easy enough to make an extension cable. But to your point, more of a hassle than buying a readymade ATX extension.

I'm late to the party, but here's my Lisa motherboard before restoration. :sick: Fortunately the scary story ended up having a happy ending..

i don’t use a single machine long enough to tell, but that doesn’t surprise me. If you want a longer lasting battery you should stick with lithium.