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That display should be fixable as well. It’s got vinegar syndrome, which is an issue with the display polarizer adhesive going bad. If you replace the polarizing film the display should work again. The PowerBook‘s logic board and the display will also need to be recapped as well if you haven’t...

The image you showed was vinegar syndrome - when the display polarizer adhesive fails. You can replace the polarizer to fix that issue, but it's tricky.

Besides the complete madness that is this haul (how, seriously...), you got a PowerBook 540??!? The regular non-c 540 was only sold for a few months and seems to be one of Apple's rarest laptops, and yet you've gone and found one! You've got the haul of the century there.

Here are some fun betas! Snow Leopard Pre-releases, including those that run on PPC Cancelled Mac OS 8 "Copland" Build D7E1 Copland Build D9 Lastly, two different Garden listings for seemingly similar Copland builds. Not sure what the difference is, but here they are: #1 #2 I can also add this...

You could really be onto something here... My 170 doesn't have any tunnel vision currently, so I can't help test, but we gotta have more people this out! I've read through the entire long 68kMLA thread on the issue started back in 2014 or so multiple times and I don't recall anyone specifically...

Good work restoring this awesome old Mac! The 170 is a great machine, besides the dreaded tunnel vision that my panel somehow doesn't have. Keep it up!

I would assume so, usually in my experience small caps can just put the values and not the units, going uf then volts under that. Could be wrong but around 80% sure.

That's really cool - I've got a Treo 650 boxed (I think it's a 650 anyway), a Palm Centro and a Treo Pro (850). They're pretty cool for old phones! It's funny how far things have come. It's a real shame they went under - webOS was awesome from what I hear. Alas, I haven't gotten a chance to use...

That definitely does, thank you! I'll have to ID the 286 CPU on my board and then get the proper replacement part. Then I just have to desolder all the rusty components, clean them, replace as necessary, replace the chip with the damaged leg, test all the tantalums, and then hopefully it will...

Oh man, I have no idea what else could be causing my fading contrast issue. I have a thread here if you want to see more about it: https://tinkerdifferent.com/threads/180c-contrast-drifting-issue-inverter-board-caps.1319/

According to Console5, the 22uf 10v caps on the display "power board" are polymers. Is this correct? I'm having contrast issues on my own 180c that's already had the display caps changed, but I haven't yet swapped out the 2 on that separate board, and I'm hoping that they're bad.

I have a Black 30GB iPod Classic 5.5 Generation (Enhanced). It works fine for most things, I installed a new battery last year, it's still got the original hard drive and it's in good health with no bad sectors. It syncs, charges, and plays music just fine. However, when I go to play back a...

That is an awesome story! Which devices did you help engineer?

Hold up just one second - how on earth did you get one of those Palm Foleos, let alone two? I remember hearing about those years ago, probably back in 2015. I was big into Palm stuff at the time and it sort of seemed mythical to me. You've got to explain how you got your hands on those.

I mainly collect old laptops, but I also like AIOs and desktops. Here’s my list: Laptops: PowerBook 2400 - The compact IBM-designed laptop of 1997. Might be the only 90s PB with good build quality. Unfortunately, they weren’t sold very long in the US and are quite rare. PowerBook 3400 - The...

The 170's display doesn't have any non-solid caps. The only electrolytic in the whole system as far as I can tell is one single through-hole on the display inverter board (inside the bottom case), and it's unlikely to fail. Unsure of the value if you want to replace it, but it should be easy to...

I can get you photos of the 5300ce, 5300c, 170, 145, 180c and 540c display cables if you need them. I’ll try to get some images of the 5300ce cable tomorrow. Connector is a bit weird on it though.

The PowerBook 180c and 5300ce both come to mind - I hear the 180c's display cable is notoriously easy to break, especially if the hinges go out. The 5300ce is just because I've got one with a torn cable that I'd really like to get back up and running someday :) Thank you for all you do for this...

Oooohhhh, would this also be possible on the 15” models? I picked up a DLSD 15” recently and would love to upgrade the resolution further if possible.

Thank you Kai! What sort of crystal/oscillator should I get to replace Y1 and/or Y2? I’m not knowledgeable in what the values for these are/how they affect the board. I’ll look up the board schematic later to check if it’s listed there. Edit: I looked up schematics, and if I'm being honest, I...